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06-07-2009 #121
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use shims behind the rear engine mounting block to tension the chain WITHOUT the chain roller...... if you have problems with the engines drive train clearing your chainstay, take a ball peen hammer (the one with the half sphere end on it) and dent the chainstay at the passing point.... use a few washers.... do whatever you NEED to do to GET RID of that POS.
MBc edit: We do not condone, hammering dents into your bicycle frames for any reason. Alterations such as this, weaken the integrity of the bicycle's design.
Last edited by srdavo; 06-07-2009 at 05:09 PM.
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06-07-2009 #122
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06-07-2009 #123
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06-27-2009 #124
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... and to broaden on that last post, when the new engine comes in (its been 6 buisness days and its still not arrived... next week it should be here)
i will most likely do away with the tentioner, OR ill drill a self tapper into it and the frame.
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06-28-2009 #125Alaskavan Guest
Per the 'MBc edit", the best thing I've done is to hack a bke apart (We're not talking denting). I say - go with what feels right.
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06-28-2009 #126
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I've never had a problem with using a bearing based chain tensioner. With how much chains stretch on these things, the last thing I'd want to be is out in the middle of no where and have a chain jump because it stretched and I didn't have a tensioner to take up the slack. I can't wait to get one of thsoe spring tensioners that one of the vendors sells.
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08-22-2009 #127
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08-23-2009 #128
Most defiantly cause Pops (Al.Fisherman) is living proof, WEAR PANTS......OUCH!!
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09-11-2009 #129
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Best advice I can give; Buy a good torque wrench, learn how to use it correctly, always use it on important boltz and nutz.
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09-04-2010 #130
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I always wear an orange safety vest (less than $5.00 at Harbor Freight). Cars are more apt to respect me when they see that I am trying to be safe. Of course, I also wear fingerless gloves, a helmet and have front/rear lights and a horn
-Gearhead
Last edited by gearhead222; 09-04-2010 at 04:16 PM.
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