my first gebe build

[vegaspaddy]

apart from the final tweaking, the build was a success and i have all you to thank for your wealth of information in helping the install run pretty smoothly and painless. I would also like to thank my family for those home depot gift cards at christmas for the past 6 years, i knew having a garage full of tools would come in handy one day.

FOR ALL YOU MAYBES OUT THERE GO AHEAD JUMP IN ITS NOT AS HARD AS IT SEEMS AND THE HELP AND INFO YOU CAN FIND IF YOU GET STUCK IS OVERWHELMING

Now if i can just figure out how to use this thumbnail program, be back in second. OK i think the thumbnails will work.

the first two pics are the engine straight out of the box (its the tanaka 33cc 2 stroke engine) heads up to golden eagle the mount was setup so the tank is at the rear and they had even extended the fuel line to reach the bottom. A big thumbs up for GEBE who are listening to their customers and making adjustments one engine at a time.

next shot is the donor bike i bought it 2 years ago to lug my kids trailer around ((but since that has been transfered to the wifes trike (a electric build which i will post shortly)) having done pre check measurements it will work perfectly with the added bonus of a bouncy seat post and front suspension, cheap yes it is, but better than nothing i suppose.... i think i paid $200 at the time.

The next stage - sliming, lining and tying those wheels, using the standard stock at the moment but have a new rear wheel with 12 guage spokes waiting at the sideline, local bike store special ordered it built by wheel master cost around $40. You never know maybe i will never have to use it...

pic 6 - mounting the drive on the wheel was pretty easy, took my time lining it up and the snapped back-wards and for-wards until all spokes were attached.

The next shot is mounting the engine to the supports and getting it ready to attach to the bike, because the rear tubes are rectangular i went ahead and mounted the rear strap using the standard approach although i did upgrade the bolt and nuts.

The next shot speaks for itself almost done, i have just wrapped the cable around the frame so i could take the bike out for a quick test ride.

BIG MISTAKE... the cable was pulled tight and had the engine at full revs when i fired it up, thank goodness i had took the time and installed the kill switch as well...

The final shot is of the engine fully mounted sitting nicely over the rear wheel.

My next projects include getting the lighting system installed, no expense spared in this department (actually most of the stuff i managed to haggle from my family back in the homeland (ireland) to send to me for free, it must be the gift of the gab, or the thought of me plastered on the sidewalk)

Heads up to jemmauk for recommending the bicygnals which are the wireless turning signals, they are amazing its a shame their are no suppliers in the USA yet. I also have some pretty groovy new peddles called pedalite pedals these baby's produce a light at the front back and side all from kinetic energy can you say no batteries forever....

I have one of those cheap turn- brake light setups from ebay which i hope to modify and turn into brake light only, and then its a matter of rigging everything so they can be seen over the engine mount at the rear.

wow lots of typing, anyhow will post new photos of the bike once i get the lights installed and once i learn how to upload videos ( i read about that in a thread not to long ago, now were is that link) will show you them in action.

ok next question, engine break in, how long does it take ?

No more typing..... will report back soon

vegaspaddy

[uncle_punk13]

Awesome build! Thanks for the details...

[Hive]

You might "search" around to find the engine break-in time and some other helpful stuff, as you know. There are various takes on the topic.

Tanaka advised to stay with their fuel mix ratio, (engines are chrome-lined) and that it would take about 1000 hours.

GEBE suggested 1500 miles. Guess it will take sometime. Be couple years for me!

GEBE does wheels at low cost. I got one from them with 12 spokes and have used it as "switch wheel" on two bikes. I use it with 9" long axle, which is a wonder at saving grief and makes engine removal a breeze, with bike still in riding form.

BTW - You can stop engine by flooding with choke lever...

Have fun.

[vegaspaddy]

hi hive,

yeap its going to take a while to break in but the guys at gebe told me not to hold back on full throttle anyhow as these 2 strokes love to maxed out even though the noise is somewhere between a goped and moped. My wife said it sounded just like a moped when i took it for a quick drive so at least thats acceptable

I want to use the bike to do part of my weekly commute about 20 miles, 5 days a week total. Will be setting of at 2.30am in the morning as a work the graveyard shift, so as you can imagine thats one of my main concerns about the noise of these engines.

Almost finished with the light setup will post new pics in the next day or so.

[Hive]

IF,

it gets to 50 plus in Dakota, it might travel to Winona in couple days - but this time of year, am not hopeful. Snowing heavy...

Twenty-mile commute, that's 40 plus daily. That's serious stuff, indeed.

Rain, sun, wind, and more wind. Scares me, and I rode small motorcycles once. But, barring dangerous roads, why not?

You will lose weight also.

BTW, I made muffler for my T-3300, so watch for test results. Will advise if it is worth it. Engines are not all that noisy at 30 feet or so...but I wanted to see if I could make it quieter, cheaply, and without ungainly cans and protrusions.

[vegaspaddy]

i have no idea where to post this link but while i was surfing i found this bike store that sells vintage bikes out of the uk, they were produced back in the 40' & 50's,

http://www.autocycles.co.uk/index.htm

check out the cyclaid models, some pretty amazing pics here of many different motor- bikes and different drive setups.

I hope someone will find this link and post it somewhere so all the diy frame builders can get some amazing ideas for their bikes.

[Hive]

I added to the Heritage thread...Hope you do not mind.

Nifty rigs, maybe some good ideas, even for we "modern" runners.

http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=9653

[vegaspaddy]

i need to put some new tires on my bike any suggestions,

when building i forgot to line the inside of the wheel as well, whoops.... (area between tube and spoke nuts) so since i have a 3 day weekend coming up i hope to get them lined and maybe put some new tires on there, any suggestions for a good quality tire that works well with the gebe setup would be great

I have changed the straight bar for a more relaxed style cruiser bar, looks great and the bar isnt so overcrowded with the gadgets added, lights speedo etc. more room to fit stuff. Done about 15 miles last week on one trip and wrists were hurting so i am hoping the new bar will help along with lowering the seat.

[kawasaki999]

continental town&countrys 26x2.1 is a great tire! police use them on there bikes.

[Hive]

Terrain is the determining factor...

Continental, as Kawasaki999 noted: a number of good choices. Cops likely get them at good discount and subject to quantity buys...

http://www.conti-online.com/generato.../index_en.html

Specialized Flat Resistant Armadillos are very good, with Kevlar liners - I use the original Kevlar Hemisphere, but would buy the Hemisphere reflective now. I ride city street, rough asphalt country and occasioanl gravel roads.

http://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCEqS...ipTires26_Flat

Schwalbe makes excellent puncture resistant tires, say the ER, spendy...but well armored.

http://www.schwalbetires.com/balloon_bikes

And there are the solids...