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02-26-2008 #1Mary Guest
Pics of my (GEBE) bike in progress
Well, after a couple of months hiatus from getting my bike running with the new GEBE kit, I decided to finish it. I still have more to do but I made good headway today.
I replaced the rear tire which had knobbies on the side and was too close to the belt. Also, I didn't like the way I had attached the GEBE strap using the GEBE L shaped bracket.
I now have an Armadillo tire with a Slime Tube. Later I may add a Tuffy Tire Liner, but I didn't think of it at the time.
I replaced the GEBE bolt with a high-shear strength bolt I bought from True Value hardware to attach the GEBE strap and I eliminated the need for the GEBE bracket. I think this is a much better setup. I will still use the zip ties as added insurance.
I was a little concerned about the angle of the motor in relation to the bike. I set it back from center so I would have clearance for the belt (rear brake was in the way).
I am also going to make a mount for a bag on the rear wheel. I need something to carry stuff in I got the idea from someone on this board, whoever you are, thanks!
I tried to post pics in a Before, During, and After sequence but it didn't work.
Actually, I had a hard time getting the pics into this post at all. I still don't know how they got on.
Last edited by Mary; 02-26-2008 at 12:59 AM. Reason: forgot something
02-26-2008 #3Hive Guest
Nearly on road.
Wondering, would the belt fit forward of brake pad to allow engine to be more upright, or is the leeway or fore and aft moving distance insufficient?
If you wanted to tilt forward, that is?
02-26-2008 #4gone_fishin Guest
very neat install, mary...you gotta love the Golden-Eagle's simplicity
my 2 pennies...i don't know if i'd risk weaving my belt inside the brake assembly (it doesn't appear there's room anyway)...maybe if it was the "tug" side, but the tensioner side may fluctuate a bit much for safety...opinion-only
02-26-2008 #5Mary Guest
Thanks to Augi, John and Bill for your comments.
I'm not sure what to do with the off-center engine. I don't have time this eve. or tomorrow to take pics and post them but I will later this week. I think I'll send the pics (when I take them) to Dennis at GEBE and ask his opinion as well.
If it weren't for all I have learned on this board, I probably wouldn't have realized that engine placement could cause future problems that I would just as soon avoid, if possible.
I'll bet I am not the only GEBE owner out there that's come up against this brake-being-in-the-way challenge. It will be interesting to see how it turns out.
I REALLY like my bike and hope I don't have to switch to another one.
Last edited by Mary; 02-26-2008 at 11:56 PM. Reason: error
02-27-2008 #6Hive Guest
Augi is correct; need to be careful about clearances, that is for sure.
Seems the engine rake or angle will not reduce efficiency, though the gas fill may be reduced, and longer throttle and kill cable might be required, etc.
As Mary mentioned, surely others have met this challenge in past - "brake being in way of belt." I did a search and found these two gross results, but have not culled ...
Honestly, seems the kind of situation that is not all bad and can be lived with to some extent - engine being slightly tilted backward. Lots of pics show similar installations. It is dealing with the other adjustments...
Belt brake links
Engine angle links
Dave's gas tanks also
If gas tank is problem,there are some alternative tanks that might help solve that problem shown in separate thread on that topic, that offer alternate ideas.
Last edited by Hive; 02-27-2008 at 07:39 AM. Reason: Info
02-27-2008 #7gone_fishin Guest
mary, are you talking about centerline positioning?
the mounting brace legs must to bent to precisely match the width of your mounting points (axle)...forcing the legs in or out will cause the brace to flex, and it will not flex evenly tho it may appear it has. the only way to get your drivegear truly aligned is to offset each side independantly. the pic i hope is clear enuff and i exaggerated the leg-positions on purpose:
mount the left-side (drive) leg to the axle and properly bend-offset the leg to center (& level) the drivegear, then offset the right-side to properly mate to the other mounting point. a properly aligned strap will easily slip over the axle, without any inward or outward stressing.
02-28-2008 #8Mary Guest
No, Augi. I was talking about the angle of the engine as it sits on the bike. It now tilts backward. Please see pic:
I didn't do any bending, I just attached the engine to the mount and put it on the axle. I had to pull on the legs to get them to sit on the L and R sides of the axle.
Frankly, I'm not sure what you're talking about.
What do you mean by drivegear? I wonder if there is a vocabulary area on this site?
I read much earlier posts about the importance of centering. I thought it meant having the engine sitting straight up over the rear tire.
02-28-2008 #9Mary Guest
Pics for Hive
Here are more pics, hopefully with better detail:
In the first pic, the belt was loose as it would be if I were not using the engine.
Last pic, the belt has tension on it.
02-28-2008 #10gone_fishin Guest
mary, i was speaking of left/right centering. the "drivegear" is the little one coming off the clutch...you want the belt to be riding as centered as possible on the drivegear, & that would be adjusted by bending the legs left or right until the drivegear is centered over the drivering. (flexing the legs in or out can possibly cause the strap to eventually break at it's weakest point, the 2 mounting holes at the top)
as far as (tilt) engine-position goes...you can basically run yours in almost any position that will mechanically work. in my case i replaced the v-brakes with a coaster, so i could move the belt to the other side of the bracket without risk to the belt, look how tightly the tanaka sits up under the seat
personally, i believe you've optimised yer engine's "tilt" position...this is only a temp install for me & i posted the pics in hopes of clearing things up...did it help or make things worse?
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