Slow Start to my build-Logging.

Thanks Shiek, can't wait to have it on the road either.
Had it idling last night with the exhaust bolted on with the re-shaped ( enlarged hole) gasket. Runs good, on the bike stand.
Today I tightened up all the rear sprocket bolts with the nylon lock nuts.
The clutch cable and the clutch handle is a real pain. It's not one of those with the pin to press on the clutch handle, has this stupid set up like a lever.

Then of all things the thread stripped on the chain roller pin, ( not the new one from the kit,that one is on the other bike I'm using to get around).
So I have to get the chain roller tensioner sorted and it seems I need a tight fitting one that does not allow the chain to move left or right too much cos the link with the clip scrapes the frame a tiny bit, not much though. If I swing the tensioner clippings thing over to the left, the chain scrapes the steel bits of the bike frame to, only just. It has to be dead centre and it will be ok.
But when the bike hits the road and the new chain initially stretches, it seems another adjustment to line things up again will be due.

Brakes and a seat and it's done to be tested. Then all the other bits and pieces.
Have no kill switch yet, just turn off the tap and let it run till the carby bowl empties.
Then the pedal chain and gears needs to be sorted, plus bending the exhaust pipe with some heat and weld a clip so it don't move.

Back in about a week, other things have caught up, but this has been journey and a half so far.

Best of luck all.
BltsMsg.

PS
Some forum ideas to save time in searching, when making reference to another thead, it might pay to include the URL.
Just a thought cos it worked well on the other thread about the clutch cable.
 
pedal hitting exhaust

Somewhere on here someone ground down the pedal a little instead of heating and bending the exhaust pipe. Just a tip that might help.
 
Just for the record, I'll post this gem of an idea about the clutch cable.
I tried to get the bike off the "bike stand" as shown in these pics.
and guess what ? the clutch cable needs to be removed because I threaded it in such a way either I cut part of the stand's frame or remove clutch cable, and it's frayed at the end.
I might actually cut the clutch cable and ditch it for a better cable that does not stretch. It just keeps stretching everytime I adjust it a fraction from that brass piece where it's frayed at the end.
http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=8729

h0tr0d
Yeah I know I read that to somewhere to, but the way it's panned out, it needs bending down then a bit of shaping to go,towards under, the bike's front down bar.
Still a small list of things to do, but nearly ready.
 
After the bike run, I got stuck into the project again. Have a seat and handle bars now ( not the one's I want, but it will do to get this thing off the workshop bike stand and on the road.
When it was on the stand I was able to spin the back wheel by hand and it started first spin and ran OK. That was about 2 weeks ago, and then I removed the petrol tank to resume building on the bike.

Last night I removed it off the stand with the same petrol in the tank from 2 weeks ago, kicked the pedals down and it ran for 6 seconds and and then it stopped. I could not get it started even while riding it up the road.
I checked for spark and there is plenty of spark at the spark plug tip end. Checked for fuel and fuel bowl was full after removing the carby and fuel bowl.
I'll replace the fuel with fresh fuel and see what happens.

Have no rear brakes yet, front brakes will do for now and I have to fit the kill-switch wiring and I hope Fetor will be able to show me how the white-wire lights is wired. Have a front mud guard from a hard rubbish bike and the rear mud guard needs a few bends sorted to make it fit right. The mud guards are white and will not be white for long. Looks yuk on a red frame with black wheels and chrome bits.
Looks sporty though with 26" rear wheel and 27" front wheel.
Dragster type handles bars is all I need to make it look different.

Ongoing, be back soon...,
 
I replaced the old fuel with fresh fuel, NGK B6HS Spark Plug and after a few coughs and splutters it runs like a charm and minimal vibration at the handle bars.
All I have to do now is tidy up the bike and this thing goes.

In Summary;
Not bad for a 27" bike frame ( minus wheels and seat) for $2.00 I picked up at a garage sale BEFORE I even knew about MBc.
I HT kit, some hi-tensile Allen Key bolts, odds and ends.
Rear wheel, handle bars are from the Raliegh bike I was peddling and the only transport I had other than catching a bus or hitchiking.
Front wheel from another Raliegh bike I had stashed as junk.
Seat from the other motoredbike.
Workshop is the converted lounge room and now the carport is part of the "extension" since I sold the Merc. for scrap metal to partly pay for the kit, (but kept badges)
So this bike's cost would not have costed more than 150.00 considering some odds and ends.
When it's all done and complete with lights,paint etc etc, I estimate about $200.00 or $400.00 if the Merc was not sold, to have releliable cheap transport to get me from A to B and back to A.

Now planning for my next project with the expireince learnt up to this point.

Thank you...,

PS
Still looking for a camera...,
 
Last edited:
Final,
went for a test run last night, did about 70Km and I'll try to describe the type of ride it had with a skinny front 27" wheel and 26" rear wheel.

Firstly, I did not like the rear sprocket ratio, too many revs on no go. Probably OK when running-in a new engine, but it feels it needs a few less teeth.
Handling the bike with the 27" wheel, I guess it's suited for cruzer status and cutting corners is like trying to handle a cadilac, rather than handle like a honda civic. But the lower rear wheel suits me cos I am 5'6'' Tall.
Handle bars will definately get changed to dragster type so it's easier to cruz.
Front mud guard rattles and plenty of wind resistance, but the white color actually gives a classy look on second thoughts. I think I'll extend the front of the guard so the air is not sccooped when riding. It will need the rear mud guard and some extras and this will be a basic bike for now and not too concerned with jazzing it up to make it picture friendly at this stage. Yet it will get more mods such as the chain tensioner,clutch cable mods,electrical as time goes on.
Vibration with the type of front mount is OK, I feel the engine is unbalanced. Something to do on the next engine is to strip it apart and hopefully see if I can get things balanced as best as. At least that what I think it is.
Much vibration at the pedals, have metal pedals.

Rear brakes needs sorting and I will definately install a front disc brake first.
After the test run, I had to break off the clutch handle( cos the handle grip is stuck on hard), the one with lever instead of the pin. The lever type clutch handle is not worth it's salt, it does not deserve any salt for that matter, it's a piece of ****, it does not work right and too awkward to operate.

At the moment the bike is not that much of a show piece to warrant taking pictures, might just keep this thread alive with pics. though from time to time.
It gets me around, will go on the next ride with it, but at cruzin speed. With the 27" front wheel it is not a racer as much as the 26" wheels.
Over all, it's was a good first build expireince and good to be back doing mechanics once again after a 25 year break from the trade. Tools are surface rusted and brought back old memories, also found those tools I had stashed away I could never find. Surface rusted, but usable.

BoltsM.
 
A quick update after a week today.

No front mud guard, it rattles too much.
Added mini toggle kill switch ( blue wire, On/Off )
To install the mini toggle kill switch, I removed the yellow button that came standard and was able to insert the toggle switch where the guts of the yellow switch used to reside. The cover part of the old standard switch was cut away so it fits over the On/Off mini toggle switch and I'll get some fibre glass/resin and mold something around it so it's water proof.

The 2 magneto wires are covered with some used automotive heater hose, I slit it through the middle along the length of the hose, and simply covered the 2 wires up along the front down bar, protected from the elements and the exhaust pipe's heat.
I left the white wire out and currently testing some lamps for lighting.


Problems with the clutch pin.At first I thought it was the clutch cable stretching and stretching.
The other day the clutch lever looked abnornmaly too far in towards the engine, so I removed the cover, removed the pin and inspected it.
I got a magent to see if I can remove the ball bearing, and guess what ?
No bearing to be found !
I got the bearing from the other bike, placed it in the hole and tried to re-fit the cover, it seemed the pin was protruding too far out, that the cover bolts could not be tightened right up.
I had to shorten the pin enough so it allowed the cover plate to fit.
It has been working OK since and have not had to re-adjust the clutch cable.
That is really weird.

Have a new spring seat and does need handle bars to come up a bit higher or I lean over too much and is not that comfortabe on longer rides.

I am not sure why alot of vibration is getting to the handle bars, excesive and gives me pins and needles after some time.

Revs are too high for my liking, either I get a 27" inch wheel or change the rear sprocket for something around 36-39 teeth. Prefer unders of 4/1 ratios.


The 2nd project, the bike I rode on the trip last week is now on the bike stand and getting a overhaul, Re: rear axle and hopefully get it right once again in due time.

Found another 27" racer bike ( steel frame, light) at a op shop for $10.00 while riding to get some groceries.

Hopefully next post is pictures.
 
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