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12-28-2007 #1Fly_boy_bc Guest
A careful OCC chopper STREET LEGAL build.
I want to install a chinese 70 cc in my OCC Schwinn chopper lookalike
This forum has made this project possible. My goal is to build an example of the state of the art using the best components from the best suppliers (barrys mount is the prime example I could have easily ended up with the "bent plate" version which cracks but you guys steered me away from that one)
I want to really "chopperize" my bike so I'm looking for a black padded WIDE saddle with springs (a'la vintage Fatboy) and handlebars with some sweep-back. I am also probably going to get the extended exhaust from Barry and some leather saddlebags (no fringes that would be going too far).
I have already purchased:
Hub adapter from Livefastmotors. (Ebay) This is the only place I could find one.
Engine mount from "Barry" (Ebay) Thanks again guys for steering me to this guy!!
A 36t sprocket from "Dacscom" The choppers small diameter rear wheel makes this a must-have.
Here in BC I can't use this bike unless I:
Get it weighed at a government weigh scale, Apply for a VIN number, Have the VIN plate sent to an approved inspection shop, Have it inspected and then they'll attach the VIN, Go to an Autoplan dealer and they will issue a registration. Then I can have it insured.
It has to have:
Head and tail lights, Brake light, Licence plate illuminator, Horn (and mirrors).
I am an electronics manufacturing technician so watch for my custom electrical system using NiMh batteries (RC) and a trickle charger powered from the magnito! If it works well I will post complete details. Since I need to power a complete lighting array (Head,Tail,Brake,Turn,Licence illuminator as well as a horn) It should be powerful enough for anybody elses requirements.
Other things I plan to do:
A really good front brake...Disk??
Boost bottle. (So cool, so simple so cheap)
Baffle material in muffler AND cut tube slightly for back pressure reduction. Yes I know I am kind of fighting myself on this one but my unproven theory is that if I reduce back pressure I can then afford some losses to reduce the sound level (I'll keep you posted).
Rubber sound dampeners in the engine cooling fins.
Sound absorbing material on both engine coverplates.
For chain noise I'll throw away the supplied chain tensioner and replace it with one that's spring loaded....one that never needs adjustment or maintenance.
I was advised to replace the chain with a KMC 415H or better still KMC K910 Kool Chain(Extreme Freestyle).
Subjects I still need to research:
O-ring the carb. (CHECK)
Stainless steel clutch cable wire insert.
Seal the air filter.
Deburring the ports.
I want to do a really good job so I am overjoyed that I have found this forum!!
MBC EDIT: THIS THREAD HAS BEEN MOVED.
Last edited by BSA; 04-08-2008 at 10:25 AM.
12-29-2007 #2gone_fishin GuestI am an electronics manufacturing technician so watch for my custom electrical system
boy, you sure have read read read the forums...great post, and a great demonstration of the proper use of forums in general
12-29-2007 #3beast775 Guest
looking forward to the finished product,i know it will be alot of work....need pics
12-29-2007 #4Gray Rider Guest
Any luck finding information on installing an o-ring on your carb?
here you go
(first search is free, after that, you're on your own )
12-29-2007 #6Fly_boy_bc Guest
12-29-2007 #7Fly_boy_bc Guest
12-29-2007 #8Fly_boy_bc Guest
White wire fever.
I have seen some of your posts re:The white wire. I haven't read it all yet because I was looking for something else at the time but it looked to me like you were looking to do the same thing as me (NiMh). How did it work for you?
I think regulation and "smoothing" are a must (Read BIG BIG capacitors). 6v@3Watts is more than enough power to do what we need as long as we stick to those nice shiny new high intensity LEDs we all have hanging on our keychains.
My plan is to work one step at a time. First as low power a lighting array as I can build. A simple charger that I use indoors and then finally the magnito charger.
12-30-2007 #9gone_fishin Guest
a single white-wire headlight (6V/3W) seems to be fairly reliable...most of our happy times will start and run with a hard connection.
however...an immediate need for safety, my budget, and my limited electrical theory-ness has led me to my obvious choice of a 12V/7A SLA. running 20W halogen headlamp and looking to add about 5W of tailight. and, i've enjoyed developing a more universal lighting/safety system, because the 2-stroke happy-time and the whizzer are the only (common) designs that offer onboard electrical service.
maybe someday i can upgrade to NiMh, which i know would make some form of onboard charging more viable.
i'm looking foward to watching your system take shape...after you get it going, maybe you can show us how to maximize our SLA systems, also. do you speak "layman?"
12-30-2007 #10Fly_boy_bc Guest
As I said my plan is to start by making a full array running as few watts as possible. My only problem on THAT front is the fact that I must adhere to Canada's Motor Vehicle Act which states that all lights must comply with certain parameters. The easiest way to do that is to use a real motorcycle headlight but the power consumption on a halogen MC headlight is in the range of 20 Watts!! Never mind the fact that they run on 12V!
I think my simplest solution is to use an old MC headlamp assembly (The kind that allows you to replace a little bulb rather than a sealed beam headlight) and put 6-10 High intensity white LEDs in place of the bulb and hope the inspection station workers just pass it. They run on 3-5 volts and consume Milliamperes of power and should produce plenty of light. The same can be used for all of the other lighting. Then it's just a matter of using standard NiMh battery and charger and a good 3.5v regulator.
Magneto charging comes after all that. Simply regulate and smooth out the power and feed directly to the charger circuit. I saw where someone had a regulator which would allow the mag to power the system with excess power going to charge the battery and battery power going into the system when needed. This is unnecessarily complex for my uses. I'll probably never run for more than an hour after dark so a simple triac could be used to select between charging mode and "lights on" mode eliminating a lot of troublesome circuitry. "lights on" mode would come on whenever you hit the brakes, selected a turn signal or turned on the headlight(or hit the horn or plugged in a radio or any other time a load is applied to the system). At all other times the charger would be charging the batteries. If I ever found myself low on battery power I could just charge the batteries from a plug or idle the engime for 15 min. NiMh batteries can be charged FAST! (not good for them but in a pinch...)
Last edited by Fly_boy_bc; 12-30-2007 at 02:12 PM. Reason: added info
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