Timbone
Well-Known Member
Over the months, I had noticed problems with the clutch adjustment. I would be riding around and notice a grabby clutch. When idling or pedalling, there has been resistance through the clutch. My response has been to make adjustments to the clutch plate (loosening the butterfly nut little by little) and tightening up the clutch cable.
No finding resolution, I opened up the sprocket cover on the motor and found a very worn clutch cam. About 1/8" of metal has been eaten away and that's why it wasn't pushing the the bucking bar well enough.
I had another one (with very light wear) from an older unused engine and the bike is performing very well now.
I did some searching on here and I saw very little on this subject. Most report problems with the bucking bar and mine is absolutely pristine. I found only one reference to making a replacement out of a Grade 8 bolt but no specifics at all.
So using a file, a hacksaw, a dremel tool, and an eyebolt on a 3/8" bolt I made a pretty good copy. I carefully notched out a tight fit in the eyebolt for a fitting nut that will serve as the actuator. The weakness of this design is that the threads of the bolt are, of course, right handed and will loosen when pulled. Sp I screwed the nut and eyebolt down tight on the grade 8 bolt threads and used another nut as a double to lock things down. Both these nuts are locked down tight with red lock tight so I am pretty sure this will work.
If anyone is still reading (Ha!), the stock cam is operated with an intermeshing, gearlike interface. I think I could take the very work cam, remove the cap nut, rotate the actuator 15 to 20 degrees and it would work just fine. Has anyone ever done this?
And, yes, I know the end of the bucking bar needs grease. I'll be on top of this from now on.
=Timbone=
No finding resolution, I opened up the sprocket cover on the motor and found a very worn clutch cam. About 1/8" of metal has been eaten away and that's why it wasn't pushing the the bucking bar well enough.
I had another one (with very light wear) from an older unused engine and the bike is performing very well now.
I did some searching on here and I saw very little on this subject. Most report problems with the bucking bar and mine is absolutely pristine. I found only one reference to making a replacement out of a Grade 8 bolt but no specifics at all.
So using a file, a hacksaw, a dremel tool, and an eyebolt on a 3/8" bolt I made a pretty good copy. I carefully notched out a tight fit in the eyebolt for a fitting nut that will serve as the actuator. The weakness of this design is that the threads of the bolt are, of course, right handed and will loosen when pulled. Sp I screwed the nut and eyebolt down tight on the grade 8 bolt threads and used another nut as a double to lock things down. Both these nuts are locked down tight with red lock tight so I am pretty sure this will work.
If anyone is still reading (Ha!), the stock cam is operated with an intermeshing, gearlike interface. I think I could take the very work cam, remove the cap nut, rotate the actuator 15 to 20 degrees and it would work just fine. Has anyone ever done this?
And, yes, I know the end of the bucking bar needs grease. I'll be on top of this from now on.
=Timbone=
