Anyone tried the new 10G kit yet?

The_Aleman · May 21, 2015

Smaller pitch just allows the same ratio with smaller diameters. That's what the point of all this is.

. o O (I wonder if he knows that a FD with 1.25" roller turns the same RPM at 20MPH no matter if the tire is 20" or 26")

KCvale · May 22, 2015

Thank you Almen.
That was entirely my only point.
It's the size of the circles.
http://science.howstuffworks.com/tra...ear-ratio2.htm

You can't magically get a different ratio by teeth count, what you can do with a belt or a lot of small teeth on a chain is make BOTH circles proportionally smaller in diameter and get the same the reduction.

The_Aleman · May 22, 2015

KCvale said:
Thank you Almen.
That was entirely my only point.
It's the size of the circles.
http://science.howstuffworks.com/tra...ear-ratio2.htm

You can't magically get a different ratio by teeth count, what you can do with a belt or a lot of small teeth on a chain is make BOTH circles proportionally smaller in diameter and get the same the reduction.

Well you sure wasted a bunch of time posting about it after you claimed you could do the same thing with 410. Good luck with that.

Saddletramp · May 22, 2015

That bike is just plain pretty. Period

KCvale · May 23, 2015

The_Aleman said:
Well you sure wasted a bunch of time posting about it after you claimed you could do the same thing with 410. Good luck with that.

Uncle! I give! I can't pull it off with 410! Hehehe...

That's OK, hit 100 miles on the analog Odometer and 12.9 on the Hour meter with no need for the pedal gearing advantage of #35 chain for normal riding.

I did find a clutch bell issue though.
Mine was not perpendicular with the clutch shaft and it put stress on the 2 carrier bearings when the clutch engaged so I ordered some replacements as they are fine for job, a pair of 6100's.

I talked with Don this morning, he's going to make sure they have a good jig for attaching the bell to the shaft at the 10G factory, I just cut mine off and re-welded it on true.

The_Aleman · May 23, 2015

Anything's got to be better than the way the first 4G clutch bells were attached. Those were practically soldered on, circle to circle.

My first clutch bell lasted 3 months before it separated. I had it welded, then it lasted another 9. A replacement I bought had a star attachment.

KCvale · May 26, 2015

The_Aleman said:
Anything's got to be better than the way the first 4G clutch bells were attached. Those were practically soldered on, circle to circle.
A replacement I bought had a star attachment.

I haven't had any clutch issues with a 4G until this one, and that 4G base I used for the new 10G secondary took a little abuse in box with other parts but still something extra to make sure it is right at the factory.

The 6100 sealed bearing pair work well to support the short 20T V-belt primary pulley.
It sure beats the heck out of an Oilite bushing on the always spinning engine output shaft to support the clutch bell and T-belt pulley.

I will post some pics of the inner workings of the 4G/10G as time permits.

The_Aleman · May 26, 2015

Again, I'm speaking of the Honda-style 4G. It has a different clutch bell than the HS 4G and your 10G. It's narrower in width and larger in diameter.

In this pic you can see the star pattern of the rotor-to-drum attachment on the left. This clutch bell has about 8K miles of time on it.
Original 2010 clutch bell is on right with rotor missing and spot weld bumps still visible from my "fix".

KCvale · May 27, 2015

The_Aleman said:
Again, I'm speaking of the Honda-style 4G. It has a different clutch bell than the HS 4G and your 10G. It's narrower in width and larger in diameter.

Yep, I know.
Yes, 2 different clutch systems.
I like the clutch bell on it's own shaft not the engines shaft, it just needs to be attached well.

Anyone tried the new 10G kit yet?

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