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Thread: TIPS I learned the hard way
TIPS I learned the hard way
THIS comes into play on certain bike models, where a screwhead, in the frame of the back wheel gets in the way.
Wal Mart Avalons, and the last three Huffy's I've built all had that pesky screw head that disallows tightening it down properly.
On the rack, there really is a FRONT/REAR difference.
Notice the two nipples, which slide over the axle, are different, one is narrower.
ALWAYS POINT THE NARROWER END TOWARD THE REAR OF THE BIKE.
If you don't have that bothersome screw, it doesn't matter, like on a single speed cruiser.
But if you are going to assemble them for friends, get in the habit of aiming the narrow part to the back. You won't have to go back to square one when installing it.
More emphasis of the TIP above
Another thing I do, not pictured (yet) is have my front strap installed before slipping the axle mount on, so when I tighten the axle nuts, I just push the mount forward and slip it onto the holes in the strap.
Well, here's a picture that sort of shows what I mean EXCEPT that was my Denver Setup, and I really had two straps holding that engine.
It was just the handiest place to carry a spare strap.
FOR extra insurance, I put A LONG HEAVIEST DUTY ZIP TIE, through a hole in the strap and around my fender/frame support, just in case I hit a pothole and snap the front strap hole in a fluke accident.
I don't have that pic, but the fluke happened ONCE, the mount slid backwards, pulling the throttle to full blast !!
Better safe than sorry, and zip ties cost pennies.
When I started assembling bikes for sale, I fashioned a VERY CRUDE measuring gap/gauge to check as I snapped the ring onto the spokes.
THE VERY BEST IDEA, if you are going to build bikes for others, is to have Dennis at GEBE send you one wheel with the ring pre-snapped on by him.
Then you can make spacers, like I did with used animal syringes, using my grinder I made 4 "pretty close to perfect" devices.
MUFFLERS KNOCK OFF 25% of the noise.
MUFFLERS affect horsepower, my guesstemite is 10% less on the 25 cc engine.
I'll have pix later:
This is about the plastic black cover, keeping it from cracking.
Road conditions and/or potholes will jar you, the bike, the rack, and the "WEAKEST" spot is where the wingnut screw that holds the cover on.
Yesterday, I took a ride down a recently graveled road, about a mile of bone shaking fun. The entire threaded rod broke off at the base, BUT NO CRACKING WHERE THE WING NUT HELD IT ON.
I have spare threaded rod, so that's no big deal, but if you reinforce the cover, it won't ever crack, and if it DID on a long travel, it might slide over a fraction, interfere with the tension arm/tension arm slot in the cover.
It's really simple-
1. Put a layer or two of duct tape squares UNDER that wingnut hole, on the inside of the cover.
2. Find a small rubber washer, and have that hold the cover on, under the regular washer and wingnut.
My lesson was learned on the Denver trip, the SAME pothole that snapped my front brace. With the hairline crack under the wingnut, the cover slid slightly, and caused the tension arm to rub.
I stopped, took the cover off, and at the bottom third of the tension arm slot, I whittled a little wider teardrop, so the tension arm bounced freeely.
03-17-2007 #6Hive Guest
What is the engine?
Just curious. Looks like Z 2-cycle. I like the way the fuel cell sits upon top.
Yeah, I had 1 of the 40's, with the tank at the bottom, never quite liked it since I was familiar with the 25's.
I "heard" there was a way to turn the 35/40 Tanaka's by 90 degrees and make those tanks upright, rather than under the engine, but know ZERO details.
The 25 cc tank is 22 ounces, which carries me between 40-48 miles on average. I have also "heard" a search is on for a little bit larger tank.
Dennis at GEBE has spoken about a setup where an auxillery tank can be installed (I think he mentioned a Whizzer "peanut" tank, mounted under the seat, feeding by tube into the engine fuel cell), which would increase the range of the 35/40 cc's, and if I was using the bigger engine, THAT would be an important addition....
03-18-2007 #8Hive Guest
Yes, It is a Zenoah 2-stroke, as I thought. Lots of ooomph!
Am guessing if it could push me up a hill, the Tanaka at 33CC should be even better. Now, will have to see if I can flip the tank.
BTW, Revopower is about to market their in-the-wheel bike, which uses a tank that sits in the drink cage. I have not asked, but for fuel, this might be the ticket for some of us.
Interesting bike out of Denver, but cannot freewheel it.
03-18-2007 #9Torques Guest
That looks like a pretty nasty system. Why would anyone want that much mass and junk inside the front wheel even with the limited performance it offers. 100 mpg? I don't like it.
03-18-2007 #10Hive Guest
I agree, but it is
Still a fascinating machine. Originally designed in the 1920s, I think.
I suppose if one is sure to be on a flat surface and not inclined to pedal, it might be the thing to have. We all know it will appeal to quite a few, if for no other reason than to "have one." It sure looks to be an easy install; just not for us.
I like that fuel cell arrangement, however and emailed them for information.