Engine Trouble someone please help front engine mount bolt broken inside

Ya it sucks breakin down I like the angle iron. Metal to metal leaves no doubt in the back of your head, I didn't see how many miles he had on that rigging.I didn't see the other mot mnt in pic. If it works I guess that's all that matters

Update: Almost done with angle iron method. Required a 2x2 inch angle iron. Cost me $12 for a 3 foot length which sucked but oh well. Tomorrow I should be done after I pick up a couple larger lock nuts for those large bolts, cut those large bolts to size, drill a couple more holes for the u-rings and its done. I actually thought it was pretty easy since I have an angle grinder to the the iron. As soon as someone suggested it, I knew it was something I was going to do. Here is the progress. It should be done tomorrow. Thanks guys I will post more pics when its done

looks solid if you can get nuts for those bolts

I usually put top angle iron going up above motor & bottom iron going down to spread the load on the frame & leaving a lot of room to put the u-bolts thru above & below the motor - not always a pretty fix even it rounded on corners & painted, but works OK & much better than scrapping a motor.

I'm a carpenter and whenever possible you want your loadbearing on top I think the angle of bearing should be underneath and fastened with machine bolts and lockwasher and nut or a nylok nut, I could be wrong. Before you put it back in the frame get another opinion

I wasn't trying to be mean I know you've got some time involved there good luck

dotcom said:

Update: Almost done with angle iron method.

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You aren't really going to use wood lag bolts are you?
And what exactly was 3' of L metal needed for?



If you flip that L over, use real bolts and nuts to secure it to the motor, you can just use a muffler clap to secure it to the front bar like this.



Be sure to leave the metal long enough to drill the muffler clamp holes so the 2 plate to motor bolts don't interfere with tightening the nuts on the U bolt.

I figured those bolts would need to be replaced with something suitable but wasn't sure so now they are only for demonstration purposes. I will get some real ones for the actual job and I think I will put another L from the bottom ending vertically for the u bolt like suggested.

dotcom said:

I figured those bolts would need to be replaced with something suitable.
I think I will put another L from the bottom ending vertically for the u bolt like suggested.

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All you need is a single piece of flat metal wider than the bike frame at the front tube, wide enough for the U bolt to come through, and long enough to folded up the bottom of your engines, over the old mount holes, and out to the muffler bracket.

You have the engine holes, just make a plate that will go exactly where you want it to.
First get yourself a muffler clamp that exactly fits your down tube.
Then get your engine mounted flat against the seat tube, this is single most important drive train part and must be at a 90 to the seat post.

Then with the muffler bracket and engine temp mount bring the engine to the front tube to see how to bend the flat metal piece.

Don't worry if you don't get it perfect, you can correct it with washers or spacers, the point is to get the back dead on first.



That is a SickBikeParts front Z mount plate, yours will just L up at the bottom to be bolted in a different place.

Nice it looks like it's not quite finished, I bought a pipe like that when I cut it at the header to exp cone weld (to fit to frame) the header ran hallway down into exp chamber, kinda defeats the purpose. It is a cheapo stamped pipe it works good now I paid 20.00 for it

I retorqued the head after replacing basegasket its running great what's the torque specs for the head 16lbs,I've got an old crftmn needle torque wrench I went Lil heavy. Glad to be rid of the bogging at wot