Titanium Wrist Pin

10-4 Fabian. Vibration makes an engine very unreliable.
JNMotors has the CDI in stock.
I think the best wirst pin option is to buy the drill bit I list on my site and have your local machine shop drill out your wrist pin. That's what I did. I've never had the titanium pin.
 
You can make or "roll" your own cdi and use a better coil. U can tweak it, but can also do damage if u don't know what your doing.
I'll put some circuits in my album soonish.

Sorry Jag, yours are overpriced (imo), a copy anyway and i have read (and seen pictures) that they are poorly made. I really am sorry as u are a valuable source of info and have some gr8 ideas, including jbweld port correction, but something is wrong with the pricing and quality of the cdi (imo).
And "pushing" this product and getting away with it here, TWICE in 2 pages, wow. This forum is really easy going
 
Sorry Jag, yours are overpriced (imo), a copy anyway and i have read (and seen pictures) that they are poorly made.

My Jaguar CDI has been completely reliable.

At the end of the day, i am a person who isn't interested in wasting my time designing or manufacturing my own CDI.
I just want to pull out my credit card and order a suitable CDI, then have it delivered to my door, like many other people.
 
If yours is anything like I have seen, it doesn't belong outdoors. It's not built for the vibrations and the enclosure will allow moisture to slowly compromise the circuit. It really needs to be sealed/"potted", but it's a LITTLE hard with the jumper pins. Maybe a jumper section could be left exposed and "siliconed" once satisfied with the settings.
Just build one and "seal it up nice" when your happy. The "FULL" one in my Album is what I want to make!

Anyway, aren't these things all about tinkering and customising? We start with so little knowledge on every component and learn from there, why would a CDI be any different? It's just not cool to sell something you copied and worth $10 for how much? "Manufacturing" what? This is a simple high-school project level circuit, no magic smoke.

Some people don't buy a complete motorised bike and take it to someone for adjustments. Your credit card won't help if you get stuck miles from home!
 
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I have had non of the issues that you've described prove to be a problem with the Jaguar CDI, and i do a heck of a lot of miles on my bike.

Having said that, if you were to build an even better CDI, with more functionality, such as a PC interface where you could play around with the ignition curve and variable soft rev limit via a laptop interface or a WiFi connection between the CDI and an android tablet, i would buy it on the spot.
 
Other people have had problems (and I only looked a 2 pages of search results).
Please don't insult my intelligence and the intelligence of the people on this forum.

"My problem with Jaguars CDI is that i bought it from him and after the internals came un-soldered he tells me to go to JNM to complain. Well guess what, JNM didn't sell me the CDI. It's a shame they (JNM) claim how much more reliable the Jaguar Racing CDI is over the stock. Jag's works better but is not more reliable. I find myself torn. I can't repair mine for the life of me because my soldering skills suck. However my father in law builds computers, i think my solution is simple. I'll have him reman the current model and replicate a few more for back ups. "
http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?33922-Wolfpack-CDI-Coil/page4

"I bought a JAG CDI last month and finished my bike a week or so ago. The CDI lasted about 1 minute and died."
http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthr...ence-ignored-email-requesting-warranty-return
 
I have a CDI that calibrates itself using a MAP sensor and an inertial measurement unit that adjusts itself for best performance under all conditions. Just send me your credit card details and i'll have one "in the mail" LOL....LOL some more...then some more
 
el, my CDI is the first one offered as a replacement to the stock CDI. Yes the basic design was copied from a Kawasaki but I changed some of the parts to match the needs of this engine. All other CDI's that followed are copies of mine, including yours.
I lived where it rained a lot and moisture in the CDI was never a problem. And my personal one didn't even have sealant where the wires exited the box. After an owner of the Jaguar CDI sets the switches to match his engine then all he has to do to make it fully sealed is put a bead of silicone sealant around the lid edge before screwing it in place.
Yes it had a reliability problem that has been solved. I am well aware of that. All assembly now is under my watchful eye (as an electronics technician since 1977) and I personally test each one to make sure its timing advances and then retards as the RPM rises.
None of my competition has this kind of tester. I know because they aren't commercially available. I designed and made my own.
So when you buy a competitors CDI you can't be sure if its timing curve is functioning. Maybe it's not but you don't know better since all you have to compare it to is the standard CDI.
 
I hope they are assembled on a proper PCB now.
As u know, one can test/plot and cdi curve with a tachometer and timing light. U can even build yr own timing light (as u know, because it's on yr website, http://www.dragonfly75.com/motorbike/timinglight.html).
I would like to see u selling twice as many of these CDIs for half the cost (and still make yr profit).
WOW, electronics since before i was born. Keep up the gr8 work!
 
I have tried to plot a timing curve that way and its impossible to be accurate. What results is sloppy, like shooting rabbits with a shotgun instead of a rifle.
With my bench tester I can set the RPM and take my sweet time pinpointing exactly what the ignition timing is.
Try holding an engine wide open and try to pinpoint what the timing is. The RPM varies and you trip over yourself trying to pinpoint it rapidly before you burn the engine up since its a no-load situation with no air flow over the engine.
I'm sorry the price is what it is but I still don't make much on each sale. That is because I have to import the parts from the US to where I am in South America, pay shipping costs to ship the units to my distributors in the US, and then let them mark the price up.
I tried selling them from here via my web site but with almost no sales, probably because when some one needs a CDI it is because theirs just fried and they don't want to wait 2 weeks to receive one. So the lack of direct sales forced me to sell through distributors.
But even after all is said and done I still think that $75 for an adjustable CDI made to match, in combo with a Honda replacement high voltage coil is a good deal. The original Honda coil retails for $80 alone.
 
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