Engine Trouble Engine only works under heavy load

My definition of hot is when it blisters your skin if you were to touch it for a full second or two. Is hardly call that tepid.

Anyway, it's all the same parts but you're right jag, I could have accidentally fixed a gap that was helping before. Sounds like I'd be better off just getting a better carb rather than dumping more money into a crappy one. Any recommendations for a cheap one that's worth getting? I see people dis everything but the expensive stuff. Which to me is stupid. If I wanted to dump 2-3 grand into a bike I'd buy a real motorcycle.
 
you can get a good carb for around $75 but then you have to figure out what to do about the manifold and the new sizing required.
lucky for you I sell manifolds. click on my signature link.
 
stock motors run best with standard intake & $10 NT carbs

even slightly modified engines with highly tuned exhausts run better with the stock carbs...

sensible people know what needs changing and whats perfectly fine as is.

what needs changing? removing weld/casting flash from ports and manifolds.

matching manifolds to ports.

the exhaust... there being nothing suitable on the market...just modify what you have :)

the jet.

everything else is a waste of time or money. and the main proponents of such "gimmicks" are the people that sell them!

the cheapest modification ive made yet? replacing the POS head gasket with a few loops of plain old teflon plumbing tape, twisted up into a "string". raise compression AND ensure the PERFECT seal :) costs all of nothing if you have the roll handy already ;)


save your money. read up on engines. ignore that signature link, its a load of drivel.
 
Thanks for the various advice everyone. I've still been having trouble. I can't afford to go replacing stuff. I used to get the bike up to 30mph. Now I can't crack 17 and can only sustain about 9-10. which is almost useless. i've taken everything apart as much as i can. nothing is broken. Piston head is a little wobbly when the top of the case is off, not sure if it's supposed to be or not. done everything i can with the carb. Nothing has helped. I can't for the life of me figure out what changed between when it was running well and now. Oddly it's more reliable now. no stalling or fuel issues, just this WOT issue. (aside from my gas cap flying off and being run over :-(
 
wobbly? maybe you should check the cranking compression. some auto parts stores can loan out a compression tester.
 
so buy it and try it.

Radical, maybe the ignition is the problem.
clean the plug and minimize the spark gap in case the spark is weak. a bad stator coil is very common. I think they are only $10. read on my site how to test it.
 
Can't afford to buy parts to experiment. Can only buy what i absolutely have to to fix things. However, I was trying to take the piston off to see why it was so wobbly (wasn't sure if it was supposed to be or whether it even mattered) and I figured out what that metal clanking sound probably was. It was...you guessed it...metal clanking. lol. bad jokes aside my wrist pin/crank baring is missing half of it. So i have to replace that and find the other piece of it that's been relaxing inside my engine all this time. Only problem is I can't get the wrist pin out. I took the little clips out but the pin is staying put even using a hammer and screwdriver to try to knock it out.
 
sometimes you have to heat up the piston and then cool off the pin before trying to knock it out.
butane torch the piston and ice cube the pin.
 
Back
Top