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Thread: Hubs on your rear wheels
02-04-2007 #1ROCKET_80 Guest
Hubs on your rear wheels
Hey, has anyone been ahving problems with loosening hubs, and/or having to overhaul them? I have a real cheap-o wheel on right now, and the hub is almost destroyed after only 100K(approx.) Is it just because it's a low-cost steel wheel? does the added vibration and chain tension cause this?
02-05-2007 #2nogoodnic42 Guest
I also have this problem and I don't know why. The bike that I have the most problems with has a Shimano hub on it so I don't think its a cheap hub problem. I tighten mine on a regular basis and carry a 17mm with me for on the road ajustments. Any sugestions are very welcome...Kelly
02-23-2008 #3MBc Newbie
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I don't understand Shimano's popularity. They use an outdated caged bearing design in their hubs. I started using sealed cartridge bearing in the late 80's when I raced bmx and never use loose ball or "sealed" mech bearing on any of my bikes. Road racing bikes and mountain bikes guys are finally catching on that these bearing are waaaaay smoother and reliable and some of the guys are even racing on ceramic cartridge bearing for even more speed(myself included on my road bike). When I started my motored bike project sealed mech hubs that came on the bike was the first thing to go in the garbage. I laced my wheels with a stanton rear hub and a bmx front hub.
Unfortunately if you are using a coaster brake you are S O L . If you are using a freewheel or cassette type hub then you should have no problem finding something that will work. I have personally ridden thousands and thousands of miles on cartridge bearing hubs and have only seen one bearing ever fail and that was after a thousand miles and a thousand jumps.
Last edited by feelinright; 02-23-2008 at 01:03 PM. Reason: spelling errors
02-23-2008 #4gone_fishin Guest
i have 1200+ miles on a shimano CB-E110...this hub on a 105g cheapo wheel is a great budget-upgrade, & it's a matter of maintenance. and preference, of course...i like rear-coaster/front-drum a lot!
that's not saying i wouldn't love to have a cartridge-bearin'd rear hub...maybe i can talk sturmey-archer into doing a coaster-drum...that would be really easy to make, actually
02-23-2008 #5RATRODER Guest
www.sturmey-archer.com augi try this link,then click on hubs,then other hubs,then XRD. louis
02-23-2008 #7gone_fishin Guest
woof! doggone i wish i'd researched my rear hub a bit more...oh well, when it wears i know what i'll replace it with. however, it is still "only" a coaster hub, albeit of S-A quality.
and, what i was talking/babbling about was a drum rear same as x-fd, but internally activated by a coaster sprocket.
03-15-2009 #8Hot Dog Piggy Tails Guest
Dude Id take 6 RIGHT NOW!!!
Well given they were affordable say 46 like the wholesaler hooks me up at. Oh we have 12 more available next day shipped guaranteed.I work with he Distributer/Wholesaler to keep real stopping power out front affordable as an upgrade with our springers and the back flanges are tempermental. Weld tehm then Cryogenic your lot before you install the press fit Flanged Coaster brakes if you can..Hardens the seat. Check each one for warpage after welding to the spool barrel so to save cryogenic freezing cost.
03-15-2009 #9Hot Dog Piggy Tails Guest
tri-radial tack beads performed with low aMperage MIG or TIG.Your local exhaust shop will do a flange tack for the cost of lunch at mcdonalds and you can keep your wheel(s) together! Heh.
Shimano has a name that is always associated with " Quality." BUT,,, they make some cheap stuff too, that nobody talks about.