problem with clutch noise?

chanseria

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i had this staton friction kit recently its new and when i start riding there is loud noise like "Krrrrrrrrrrrr!" but it goes away when i am accelerating anybody had this problem please share you ideas on how to solve it i read on some thread on this forum about clutch drum problem and i don't have any idea how to change clutch drum
need help thank u
 
i had this staton friction kit recently its new and when i start riding there is loud noise like "Krrrrrrrrrrrr!" but it goes away when i am accelerating anybody had this problem please share you ideas on how to solve it i read on some thread on this forum about clutch drum problem and i don't have any idea how to change clutch drum
need help thank u

with the engine off and the rack raised, does the spindle spin freely by hand? if it doesn't and you hear metal on metal you may have to reposition the the clutch drum or insert some washers between the engine and the rack or drum. the key is making sure that the spindle spins freely.
 
with the engine off and the rack raised, does the spindle spin freely by hand? if it doesn't and you hear metal on metal you may have to reposition the the clutch drum or insert some washers between the engine and the rack or drum. the key is making sure that the spindle spins freely.

hi thank you for response i will check it and come back with the answer later.
 
hi thank you for response i will check it and come back with the answer later.

i'm re-reading my original posting and it may not have been too clear. with the engine not running and the rack raised, makes sure the spindle can be spun freely by hand with no metal on metal sounds. if you do hear/feel metal on metal, loosen the (4) engine mounting screws and rotate the clutch drum housing. look very closely and there should be (4) slight marks on the clutch drum housing where Staton wants you to position the mounting screws. most clutch noise on the Staton kits is due to the engine clutch not being perfectly centered within the clutch drum. i've had situations where it may be centered but the clutch bolts on the engine protrudes too much and hits the inside of the clutch drum. you solve this by inserting a washer underneath each engine mounting screw between the engine and the clutch drum housing, just enough to give the clutch bolts clearance to the clutch drum so that it spins freely. Staton kits are extremely reliable and problem free with the engine properly mounted.
 
i raised the rack and spinned the spindle there is no metal clicking sound it was smooth but like i said before when i start the motor and ride it first it gives a sharp krrrrrrr noise it dissapears only after i gave it enough speed and clutch engages fully.
but thank you for your invaluable information i will unscrew the drum housing and check what you said. maybe put washers and check it helps
thank u

i'm re-reading my original posting and it may not have been too clear. with the engine not running and the rack raised, makes sure the spindle can be spun freely by hand with no metal on metal sounds. if you do hear/feel metal on metal, loosen the (4) engine mounting screws and rotate the clutch drum housing. look very closely and there should be (4) slight marks on the clutch drum housing where Staton wants you to position the mounting screws. most clutch noise on the Staton kits is due to the engine clutch not being perfectly centered within the clutch drum. i've had situations where it may be centered but the clutch bolts on the engine protrudes too much and hits the inside of the clutch drum. you solve this by inserting a washer underneath each engine mounting screw between the engine and the clutch drum housing, just enough to give the clutch bolts clearance to the clutch drum so that it spins freely. Staton kits are extremely reliable and problem free with the engine properly mounted.
 
chanseria,
what engine/size are you using with the staton kit? what type of bike? cruiser single speed, MTB multi-speed? it's not unusual for clutch noise as you are first taking off and the clutch is engaging the drum. that usually goes away as you build up momentum. sometimes you have to develop your own riding technique as to what works well for your particular setup. i rotate so many different engines and every time is a learning curve adjusting to their peculiarities. lots of greater minds than I on this forum so the more information we have from you, the more we can try to help.
 
You are going to have to take the engine off the mount and check the centrifugal clutch springs, as well as the clearance on the drum that surrounds the clutch drum. It sounds to me like the two drums may be touching, or, more likely, one of the springs has come off/broken, allowing one clutch shoe to contact the drum way early. When you put the engine back on, make sure to tighten the four bolts evenly. A little tight on the ones opposite each other, then tighten a little tight on the two others, until all are tight. Don't rush things.

The two(some engines use three) clutch shoes are held in their off position until engine revs build enough for centrifugal force to overcome the spring tension and the shoes expand out to touch the drum. Even more rpms will force the shoes out harder until slippage ends.
 
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