I don't know much about caps, resistors, diodes, switching circuits, etc. And I use hand signals for turning. But I did build a very simple 12v lighting system with a battery and a generator to charge it. I will lay out the components the best I can. I guess I'll start with the generator. It's a 12v bottle generator, the kind that spins off the tire. I ran the positive wire from the generator to a scooter regulator. The regulator converts the genny's AC to DC. Then I ran a wire from the regulator to a power distributor, used in car audio, with a 4A inline fuse. The battery, headlight and brake light are all connected to the power distributor as well. The brake light is controlled via a brake lever with a built-in switch, so it's probably already got a cap in it. The headlight is controlled via an automotive toggle switch. The brake lever originally housed a wiring harness that controlled the brake light, headlight via a high/low beam, turn signals and horn. I gutted the wiring harness and dremeled the crap out of the housing until the toggle switch would fit in there. The toggle part sticks out of the hole where the horn button used to be. All components are grounded to the frame. I also made a custom battery gauge. It's the kind designed to fit into a boat dashboard. I took apart an old tail light and epoxied the gauge into the back part of the tail light housing. The gauge has an on/off switch which is a sp/st rocker switch I ordered from sick bike parts. I added the on/off switch for two reasons. One, even though the gauge is only supposed to draw less than a milliamp per hour, I don't want to take the chance of it draining my battery. Two, I don't have to stare at it while driving. The battery is a 12v, 1.2Ah SLA battery. I chose a small capacity battery for two reasons. One, it is small and lightweight. I don't know if you've ever seen a Whizzer battery, but it's the same size as a Whizzer battery. This enabled me to fit my battery on my luggage rack and slide it partway under my seat. It is a little less than half the width of my luggage rack, and I have it secured with a large hose clamp. Two, a smaller capacity battery charges more quickly, so with daily use, it pretty much stays above 13v. It holds a charge well. I have not used my bike all winter, nor have I brought the battery inside to charge, and it's still at 12.5v. I've compared my onboard battery meter to a digital multimeter, and it's accurate within (+/-) 0.1v. Hey, I'm not trying to one-up your project here, just trying to give you some ideas and inspiration for future projects or if you decide to change this one up a bit at some point. Good luck with your project!