Schwinn Build II (straight bar)

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lillback44

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I've started getting ready for this new build even though I'm not quite finished with the last one. I've been acquiring parts for a while and have a few parts from the other build. I'm hoping to do a really nice bike for about half the cost of the first one! The plan for this one is another classic Schwinn bike that is not a typical whizzer and with a few twists that will hopefully make it unique!
This build is starting out similar to the first. I already have a frame, a engine, and the S-2 rims I decided not to use on the last build. The frame is a 1952 Schwinn straight bar frame and the engine is another H-motor. Some of you will have seen this frame in my other post. $_57 (3).jpg
 
View attachment 52061 Next I picked up a H-motor on ebay. I picked this motor because I saw a lot of potential in it. If you look beyond the dirt this motor is in pretty good shape and has most of the major components I need. Certain component are hard to find and you can spend months looking for them. Recently a idle pulley came up on ebay and went up to $107 quickly. I hate to see what the final selling price will be on that.
I'm getting this motor ready to ship to Quenton Guenther for rebuild. As I've mentioned before Quenton is a whizzer expert and builder and I'm a big fan. He's accessible, knowledgeable, and extremely fair on his prices. I saved at least $400 sending my motor to him and he even posted lots of info and pics on my other thread. Quenton, please feel free to do the same this time.
I probably wouldn't be including the building of this engine in this post, but I have access to some equipment I didn't have last time and thought it might be of interest to some. The motor came mostly dis-assembled so I started by taking the head off the jug, then take the valves out. One of the valves was really stuck and was difficult to remove. The other was tight but not as difficult. Removing the valves is pretty easy and I only needed 2 slotted screw drivers to push down on the spring and pop off the clip.$_57 (5).jpg
The jug looks rough, but has no broken fins and is actually in good shape! Next I took the head and jug to work where I have access to a sand blast cabinet.IMG_20140301_035350.jpg Just the head and jug were blasted. The rest was washed in the sink.
Next I brought the case to work where I put in the parts washer for several hours.IMG_20140303_154355.jpg Next is a few pics of before and after. The washer is heated at about 160 degrees Fahrenheit and has degreaser in it. After washing I used a air hose to thoroughly dry the case.IMG_20140303_154335.jpgIMG_20140303_181345.jpgIMG_20140303_181359.jpg
The case turned dark and was a little tarnished so after I got home I cleaned it up with a scotch brite pad, metal polish, and some elbow grease!. Looks good.IMG_20140304_012510.jpgIMG_20140304_012616.jpg
I didn't sand blast the case because I didn't want the metal to look raw. Stay tuned.
 

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Motor is cleaning up nicely and should be ready to ship to Quenton by the end of the week.
 

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IMG_20140306_032450.jpgIMG_20140306_213630.jpgI wanted to use every piece of this motor that I could but was very disappointed to see the the guide bar clamp was welded on to the broken guide bar. I decided to try and save the clamp anyway, so using a cut off wheel on a hand held grinder i went to work separating the pieces. Than I sand blasted it and slowly worked both halves on a bench grinder till I had removed all of the bar.
 

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Next thing was to try and save the exhaust elbow. A previous owner had jammed a piece of pipe into the elbow, drilled 4 holes in it, and than welded the pipe to the elbow along with the heads of the screws so they could not be removed. The following pic is the best that shows the exhaust.$_57 (9).jpg

I cut the pipe off, sand blasted the piece, and grinded as much of the weld as I could.

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I took the piece to a machinist at work to try and mill out the pipe inside, but a crack started to develop. I than drilled out the screws and went into the piece with a die grinder. I was able to grind through the pipe inside enough to get a screw driver in there and pry out that pipe.

After all off that I put the part to a disc sander to shape it up a little then I sand blasted it a little more. Part came out pretty nice with only hairline cracking around one of the screw holes.

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Finally I painted it with some engine enamel. The final pic is of a reproduction and the original. I can't remember which is which!

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New build is on!

With the motor on it's way to Quenton, I can start to finish my first project, but first I want to get the frame ready to powder coat. I'd like to have this one ready for the motor when it's done. I trust Quenton totally to do this motor correctly just like the last one. Hopefully he will post some pics and some info as he did last time. I really enjoyed seeing his progress.
I learned View attachment 52143View attachment 52144View attachment 52145 from the last build so I'm hoping to get things started off right. Some may remember that I had some clearance issues on the other project so I'm determined not to make this mistake again. The advantage I have this time is I have another bike and motor to borrow parts off to check things before I buy other parts.
The engine fitment on this straight bar frame is extremely tight! The very top of the carb almost touches the bar with maybe 1/8 inch to spare. I'm going to work on this to make sure it's as low as it can go. I'm also planning to wrap the frame with rubber inner tube to hopefully avoid scratching the frame. Just trying to mount the motor for this mock up is tearing up the old paint! Below is a few pics of the mock up so far.

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I think I will have enough clearance for the belt up top, but I'm going to spread the frame between the drop outs with my trusty reversed MacPherson Strut Spring Compressor(see other build if you missed this) and add a 1/2 in. spacer to the rear axle.

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As soon as I'm sure I have all the clearance I need i will get this frame off to powder coat.
 
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