DYNO eddy current brake. take 2!

one 40kg set of digital scales, on the way.

and probably a month later, the tacho will arrive, despite being ordered at the same time:rolleyes: such is life :giggle:

attached my torque reaction arm, with adjustment to get it to 12" exactly, for direct lb/ft readings.

thinking i might get a piece of this stuff...

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=331147457538&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en

and replace that brass disc and hub with one solid piece, now the new cush drive allows me to remove certain extraneous parts. its just six bolts, some poly pipe slipped over the heads, running in pockets machined in the hub, on the same PCD. more luck than planning, that one :) murphy was lookin the other way that night :)

possibly machine it to look like this...

PICT0192 (Small).JPG

cant really go overboard on the fins, as it adds load that ISNT measured. but it would look pretty cool :) maybe just straight fins so i can retain the unidirectionality of this creation. whatever gets the heat away, i guess. be nice to duct it for engine cooling, but as i said...unmeasured load. so the cooling fan will be separately powered.

2011 alloy having electrical resistance of at least a third of this "mystery" brass disc, makes for more absorption :) can also be a lot thicker, which only improves the situation.

and if im seriously going to spin it at 9000+rpm(remember, i got other engines beside HT's to test!).... solid is far less likely to EXPLODE on me! will be lighter, less inertia, not that that is really an issue with this design. plus theres only 3 M5 screws holding the disc to the hub... really cutting it fine at the time, using what i could find. grrr, free scrap versus 80-90 dollars of alloy, and a few hours machining. grrrr.

the "brake" design, i feel, is far superior to the "inertia" design more commonly associated with dyno tests... i can set this thing to lug along at whatever RPM i desire, and let it sit there for hours :) as long as i can cool the disc down fast enough. a water pump may have been easier in hindsight but this method is unusual, so it stays :)

oh... the last video i posted...i thought something was up, and it was. good old crank seal had let go :) enough to run and rev, but leaking enough to ruin the idle. so much for having a spare engine on the shelf! so now, its back to twiddling thumbs and waiting for more bits to arrive.(20 pack of seals for 20 dollars? beat that!) i really am going to have to buy a whole kit soon, despite not wanting to... "break in" as stock, with stock muffler, get some base figures, then start experimenting from there :)

like is there really a break in period at all? what difference does just some port matching make? an internal deburr? :geek:


i dont even have a stock, spare, CDI box kicking around anymore! this is terrible! collect junk and destroy all the good stuff!
 
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These developments are getting more and more juicy. I can't wait to see what power numbers a stock standard 66cc engine puts out and i equally can't wait to see the differences between competing aftermarket engine products.
 
oh. a 66. you send me one, ill do the tests :) stock, in the box :)

i guess one day ill have to buy a 66, dangnamit. i really dont want to... but i WILL make sure i KILL it :)

found my "local" alloy supplier...(2 hours away by car is local?) will sell 65mm of 160 bar for $55.
 
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