Noob builds hybrid 49cc gas+ 2000 watt electric Felt MP. I tried my best.

Status
Not open for further replies.
DSCF1919.JPG

DSCF1934.JPG

DSCF1922.JPG

DSCF1926.JPG

DSCF1938.JPG



This bike is a project/ordeal I started about 6 months ago. Originally a 2012 Felt MP beach cruiser , this bike had the gas motor installed and a few months later the electric hub was installed. Bike is capable of operating by pedal, gas or electric or all three at once. The electric hub provides the torque and the gas motor provides the top end speed. A 50 tooth rear sprocket gives the gas motor a top speed of 35-40mph with a 200 pound man in the seat on level terrain. Top speed for the electric hub alone is 25-30mph. When both motors are used simultaneously, it is capable of climbing the steepest hills without pedaling and able to pull away from a dead stop at car speeds. I wish the gas engine fully recharged the batteries on the fly but it does not. It does, with brake regen and gas motor running, extend their range by over 300%.

Bike:
2012 Felt MP

Motors:
Huasheng 49cc 4-Stroke C.A.R.B. Approved
Crystalyte HS3540 Direct-Drive Hub

Clutch:
Fully Automatic Centrifugal EZM Q-Matic

Batteries:
AllCell - Lithium Nickel Manganese Cobalt 48V 12.9Ah (Housed in right hand ammo can)
Phantom - Lithium Ion 12V 14Ah (Housed above front fork)

Controller:
Crystalyte 40A 12 Mosfet Sensorless (2000 Watt)

Front Brake:
Tektro - Auriga E-Comp Caliper (hydraulic)
Tektro - Hard Ceramic Brake Pads
Shimano - Ice Tech Front Disk (203mm)

Rear Brake:
Crystalyte (internal electric, voltage regenerative)

Front 3 Speed Derailleur:
Shimano 105

Tires:
Geax - 24" x 2.3" Tattoo Rigid

Lights:
Rear Dual PDW - Danger Zone
Front 20 Watt CREE LED light mounted inside a Hella 500 light housing

Horn:
Wolo 139 Db 12V Air Horn

Throttles:
Electric - Left Hand Thumb Throttle
Gas - Right Hand Twist Throttle

Seat:
Harley Davidson bobber style, genuine leather, motorcycle seat

Seat Height:
28" (fixed)

Battery Range:
Batteries alone: 25 miles (no pedaling)
With gas engine running: 75+ miles (no pedaling)

Fuel Capacity:
3/4 Gallon

Weight:
100-120 pounds (estimated)

Combined Horsepower:
4.7 Horsepower (2 Gas + 2.7 Electric)

Combined Mileage:
1500 miles

Top Speed:
35-40 mph (level terrain, no pedaling)
 
I'm using a Land Rider derailleur. Much less expensive than he Nuvinci 360. Just recently did upgrades to my bike and will be posting pictures and videos soon. I now use a Staton hub and a Rino Lite double wall rim. The Staton shift kit has a 44 t for the engine. I use a Surly stainless steal 34 t chainring to drive a 8 speed DNP 34-11 freewheel. It works great been riding the bike for two years now.

Ah yes the ole Land Rider Auto Shifter. I got a 50 toother on my back wheel and it's good for 40mph but as soon as I hit a hill it's all over........until I engage the electric hub. Then it almost holds the exact same top speed climbing that hill. When I reach the top of the hill I disengage the electric hub and continue on the gas engine. All of this takes place seamlessly. When I hit the brakes the regenerative electric brake recharges my battery pack and slows my butt down like ABS brakes on a car.
 
Ah yes the ole Land Rider Auto Shifter. I got a 50 toother on my back wheel and it's good for 40mph but as soon as I hit a hill it's all over........until I engage the electric hub. Then it almost holds the exact same top speed climbing that hill. When I reach the top of the hill I disengage the electric hub and continue on the gas engine. All of this takes place seamlessly. When I hit the brakes the regenerative electric brake recharges my battery pack and slows my butt down like ABS brakes on a car.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Was the 25 miles on the electric motor including the use of regenerative braking? I've wondered if propulsion generators like the ones which lean against the tires and maybe solar panels could be used to extend the battery time.

On my bike I've set the cadence adjuster screw so the bike up shifts at 6500 rpm and down shifts at 5300 rpm. Since I'm only using a single chainring now to drive a 8 speed freewheel it means the derailleur is only in 8 positions. Therefore I'm going to put a 20 position rotational switch on the derailleur. Run a 9 lead cable up to a custom built display board to power 8 led's. The led's would light up the numbers 1-8. This way you'll always know what gear you're in.

Right now you must set the cadence adjuster screw and that is what you have to ride on. Where I've got it set and with my gear setup you would have to peddle a cadence of 142 to up shift. So riding peddle only means riding in first gear (34-34). To overcome this I'm going to use a twist shifted to manually adjust the cadence adjuster.

My other plan is to get rid of the pully belt drive setup. And use a direct gear drive. I know this will cause the weights to spin counter clockwise instead of the normal clockwise direction. So I put a high speed reversible drill onto the shaft of the derailleur and confirmed it doesn't matter which direction the weights spin in the derailleur function is still the same.

I've got a few more things I want to do to my Land Rider bike then I plan to move on to building the electric bike.
 
Was the 25 miles on the electric motor including the use of regenerative braking? I've wondered if propulsion generators like the ones which lean against the tires and maybe solar panels could be used to extend the battery time.

On my bike I've set the cadence adjuster screw so the bike up shifts at 6500 rpm and down shifts at 5300 rpm. Since I'm only using a single chainring now to drive a 8 speed freewheel it means the derailleur is only in 8 positions. Therefore I'm going to put a 20 position rotational switch on the derailleur. Run a 9 lead cable up to a custom built display board to power 8 led's. The led's would light up the numbers 1-8. This way you'll always know what gear you're in.

Right now you must set the cadence adjuster screw and that is what you have to ride on. Where I've got it set and with my gear setup you would have to peddle a cadence of 142 to up shift. So riding peddle only means riding in first gear (34-34). To overcome this I'm going to use a twist shifted to manually adjust the cadence adjuster.

My other plan is to get rid of the pully belt drive setup. And use a direct gear drive. I know this will cause the weights to spin counter clockwise instead of the normal clockwise direction. So I put a high speed reversible drill onto the shaft of the derailleur and confirmed it doesn't matter which direction the weights spin in the derailleur function is still the same.

I've got a few more things I want to do to my Land Rider bike then I plan to move on to building the electric bike.

Yes 25 miles with regen from a battery pack that weighs 8 lbs. I could add another identical pack to double that range if I wanted.

You sound just like me. If it doesn't exist then no problem I'll just make one myself. LOL

I thought you built a internal hub that auto shifted. That would be amazing. So would a true auto CVT for bikes.
 
Pretty cool bike, a bit heavy for my tastes.The Hanebrink or anything with that footprint, makes sand like riding on ice, side-slip dangerous like crazy.
If you ever decide to spend that type of money again, spend half of it on figuring out how to make these little engines super-silent, you'd really have something.
 
Pretty cool bike, a bit heavy for my tastes.The Hanebrink or anything with that footprint, makes sand like riding on ice, side-slip dangerous like crazy.
If you ever decide to spend that type of money again, spend half of it on figuring out how to make these little engines super-silent, you'd really have something.

That engine is almost dead silent if you leave the stock exhaust on there but it is 5mph slower than the exhaust that is now on there. I finally stuffed the aftermarket exhaust with steel wool. It's quieter now but it is a bit slower. I hate the gas engine noise but it does triple my batteries range so I just deal with it.
 
KC Vale made an attempt to do something with an autoshift NuVinci system but was unsuccessful. About the least expensive autoshift internal hub is still around $500. You can get that one in 8 or 11 speed. They used to make a 4 speed one but discontinue it because the peddle only riders felt it didn't give them enough gearing options. However you still get these hubs and they might work even better for a motorized bike than the 8 or 11 speed ones. KC once told me more gears more things to go wrong.

Human legs need close gear range to maintain cadence. But engines and motors need a wider range between gears. Myself I can't afford to pay $500 or more to find out the internal autoshift hubs couldn't handle the torque put out by an engine or motor.
 
KC Vale made an attempt to do something with an autoshift NuVinci system but was unsuccessful. About the least expensive autoshift internal hub is still around $500. You can get that one in 8 or 11 speed. They used to make a 4 speed one but discontinue it because the peddle only riders felt it didn't give them enough gearing options. However you still get these hubs and they might work even better for a motorized bike than the 8 or 11 speed ones. KC once told me more gears more things to go wrong.

Human legs need close gear range to maintain cadence. But engines and motors need a wider range between gears. Myself I can't afford to pay $500 or more to find out the internal autoshift hubs couldn't handle the torque put out by an engine or motor.


The NuVinci 360 can now be had for $320 brand new. I'm gonna roll dice on my next bike and see just how reliable that hub is and what its torque limits are.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA1G80CY9778
 
I know Staton offers a NuVinci setup and you might want to contact KC. He's got a forum as well KC Kurser's forum.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top