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Thread: Belt tension and starting
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06-08-2012 #11
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If you have carburetor issues you can send it to me and I will clean and adjust it for you. I won't charge you for the work, but you will have to pay shipping both ways.
If you want to try to service it yourself, I will gladly help you with step by step instructions. I think the carburetor already has been rebuilt, and is most likely just a victim of todays gasoline.
I would try filling the fuel line with Gummout carburetor cleaner, let sit for several hours, then remove the small drain screw at the bottom of the float chamber. If you repeat this process several times it may flush out the float chamber & clean the float needle valve. You can also carefully remove the 3 screws that secure the top of the float chamber, lift slowly and make sure you don't tear the gasket and look inside. You can also adjust the main jet [at the bottom of the carburetor] all the way in then back out as this may remove any obstruction. Be careful and note the setting be sure to return it to the original setting if possible. The original factory settings are "turn screw clockwise until it seats [lightly] and back out 3/4 turn". This is also true with the air/fuel idle adjustment screw on the side of the carburetor.
Have fun,
Either way, not to worry as I will help you put your Whizzer on the "road again".
Have fun,
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06-10-2012 #12
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I did all the above, got her fired up for a couple minutes...zero throttle action. throttle stuck wide open, when I twist throttle...nothing, the lever atop the carb moves but no change in idle full open. I repaeated the processe above now I am back to sq. one. Wont fire up again, and the gasket needs replacing.
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06-11-2012 #13
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Hi Troy,
Thrilled you at least got it to fire up.
Are you using the later "twist" controls?
The best way to start motor is open throttle approx 1/8th open with choke on.
If you are having issues with the controls, maybe you could post a picture of how they are setup on your bike.
Have fun,
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06-12-2012 #14
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So I got her fired up again today throttle still no action. The top of the carb where the lever is is extremely close to the top bar of the bike it may be hitting, so I am going to take the bottom mounts off and shave them so I can drop the motor the last 1/4 inch possible to free up the lever. I am also ordering new cables for the throttle and compression maybe the cables for the levers are a different length than the twist grips.
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06-13-2012 #15
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I had a little time before work, took off the lower mount to trim it, also took the carb off to go through it the best I can to eliminate as much as possible. As for the idle tube screw, what would the factory suggestions be for a starting point? I have a couple hours free tomorrow to get some of this done.
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06-13-2012 #16
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Hi Troy,
The main jet [bottom adjustment], and the idle mixture screw are both set at 3/4 turn as a good starting point. Screw both in GENTLY!, don't over tighten, then turn out 3/4 turn.
If you need, call me and I will "walk" you through the process.
Have fun,
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06-14-2012 #17
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Thanks Quenton,
What about the idle tube screw between the choke and throttle, on the top of the carb what would the factory setting be on that?
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06-14-2012 #18
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Thank You for the help Quenton, got her going today. My new throttle cables came just in time. Got in about 2 hours of riding today. So much more bottom end power than the HF I had. Its a bit hard to get used to the "non spring action" on the throttle. Still got a few bugs to work out, but shes running!
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06-18-2012 #19
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The screw between the throttle & choke lever is for low speed idle circuit and should be tightened all the way [it isn't an adjustment]into the carburetor housing.
Thrilled to see you got it running, the vintage motors sure have a lot of bottom end torque, and will pull most hills easily.
Have fun,
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06-19-2012 #20
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Thanks Again Quentin,
she is running great!!! I swapped out the "J" throttle grip for a mini-bike throttle, added a walbro swivel to the throttle lever and a spring return and now the throttle action is sweet .
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