Has anyone officially 100% found a way yet to run a head light off the white wire yet

[Fabian]

Sometimes the most simple ideas are the best: just 4 wires and 2 LED lights and it's "Job Done"

[Sgt. Howard]

I HAVE DONE IT!!!! I need to reverse engineer it so I can explain it, but I have done it! Headlight, tail light, brake and turn signals! YES!!!! IT CAN BE DONE!!! White wire goes thru bridge rectifier balanced with two tank capacitors to a 6 volt SLA battery sold by ACE hardware, the one with 4.5 amphrs of service. From there, you ballast each LED according to its' voltage drop and requirements (usually between 10 and 100 ohms). Three reds for the tail, three reds for the brake- use a beehive clearance light for the base unit and tag the breadboard into the unit with the bolt that mounts it to the plate. Turn signal require four amber beehives (or two amber two red) with three amber LEDs apiece- when you run your leads, ALL negatives go to a common wire- DO NOT GROUND TO FRAME!!!- positives come from appropriate switches. The positive lead that feeds the switch for turn signals, run a green blinker LED without resistor in serise mounted near the switch and visible- this will blink the lights you activate and tell you the blinker is on. I have created a brake switch that works off the front brake and does not require the brake be dissassembled to instal. Works flawlessly. Headlight is a three LED $5 Home Depot flashlight head mounted into a 3" diameter PVC Endcap painted with fusion to match the bike.
How do I know the white wire works? IT RUNS THE LIGHTS AFTER I HAVE PULLED THE BATTERY!!! And does NOT dim at idle! Can't explain it, don't care to... but it has been nightrunning for a week now without hiccogh!! I will do pix and schematics as soon as I can

[Fabian]

Photos please Sgt. Howard

[MikeJ]

Sgt Howard -

Congratulations! Many have tried yet you were first to make a working system! Good for you! Keep testing and let us know from time to time how you keep improving it. And what configuration does not work is just as important, like too many lights. . . . .

MikeJ

[Sgt. Howard]

Here we are- this will be done as a serise of posts as these are BIG PICTURES

[Sgt. Howard]

Yea, those first four are a tail light in manufacture- the breadboard will be epoxied to the ring mount- Here we have the 'HotBox', a bridge rectfier with two 1ooo mF tank capacitors to even out the pulse. Fancy soldering, eh? And these 'hotboxes' are strictly to run WITHOUT battery. White wire and motor ground go to sine wave symbols, Positive and negative are clearly marked. Capacitors cross the pos/neg, pos to pos, neg to neg (neg has a stripe on tank). From there it goes to battery.
The last photo shows the left side of the battery box that's on the 'Panama Jack'- the upper 'box' is only a mounting board, the lower box is the 'Hot Box'. You can see the wires here...

[Sgt. Howard]

Here you actually see the battery as well as the battery box- plus a close-up of the switch for the brake and the control switch I bought for $4 a pop and cannot find any more ... but no matter. Such things can be fabricated or improvised easily enough. And yes, I like to show off my fancy woodworking skills- the finish here is 'Ipswitch Pine' with four layers of spar varnish. I hope the nomenclature of the battery comes across well- it is a common ACE hardware item.
My next step will be to do the schematic in 'Paint' so it can be replicated by nearly anyone... oh yeah. ELECTRONICSGOLDMINE.COM is where you want to go for LEDs, Bridge rectifiers, Tank capacitors, resistors, death ray phasors... er, no- they don't have those... anymore... some bozo at BATF&E got wind of it and there was a real... charley foxtrot... and NO I will not sell MINE! Anyways, they sell electronic gizmos by the pound. Minimum $10 order will give you a shoveload of stuff! You do hafta know what you are ordering, tho... no tech support. They assume you know what you want... kinda iffy in my case, but cheap enough I don't worry

[Heathen]

Hi!
I've been using stock led dynamo bicycle lights for over a year of the white wire on engine.
The lights i use is made by bush + muller (www.bumm.de) and are sold by a lot of companies, not sure of the americas though.
the one i use is one of the cheapest one lumotec lyt sense plus, and it pretty good, lets me see where i'm going + if the engine stalls the light still keeps lit for a minute or so(stand light). it puts out about 20-25 lux. they do have more expensive versions with up to 40-60 lux.

for more info look here(german reseller): http://www.roseversand.com/products/...nchor_products

fyi these lights are for ac power (6v/2.5-3watts) only, they wont run of a battery(dc power)

//heathen

[Heathen]

ok, so after a few months of thinking, learning and tinkering this is what i came up with. It started with that i wanted just turn signals, but it turned into a full blown electrical system.

https://sites.google.com/site/pesego...stem-ht-engine
(to much to write into this forum.)

hopefully this might help someone else to

//heathen