need rear wheel rim

Hi jroyse,


Getting the belts adjusted correctly is a major event. Because of the "world class" engineering used [wouldn't it be great if they simply copied the Amreican vintage clutch system, as it worked] it is difficult to get the clutch adjusted correctly. If adjusted correctly to avoid slipping at higher speeds, it won't release at the stop sign. If adjusted to release at a stop, then it will slip at higher speeds. The problem centers around the arm being too short [or too long], and the belt length is between sizes. If adjusted to work at high speeds you will notice the belt rubs the bottom front belt guard mounting post. Instead of the 4L290 belt it will need an in-between size [4L285], sadly the 4L series doesn't offer a 28.5" length belt. Also selecting a fractional HP belt [4L series] is another poor choice, as they easily stretch, glaze, and run very hot. The vintage Whizzer with a perfectly operating clutch was designed by AMERICANs and used an AX series primary belt. Someone in Tiawan didn't bother to research different belt designs, and opted to use the CHEAPEST belt available. The original AX series belts were designed to operate around small pulleys. The notches [teeth] used in the AX series design was too allow the belt to bend around smaller pulleys without "bunching up".

Because of the poor engineering of the clutch system used on the new edition Whizzers, it will be necessary to consider a different primary belt. Consider using an automotive wedge belt in place of the 4L290. Automotive wedge belt are available in half sizes and have "notches" to allow the belt to bend around small pulleys. Automotive wedge belts are normally available in different widths. The 4L290 is 1/2" wide, whereas most automotive wedge belts are 15/32". In both cases the numbers are "fudged" as the 4L series is often 15/32" [.468"], and the wedge series are closer to .4375" [7/16"].

The automotive wedge series will ride lower in the pulleys as compaired to the 4L series, and the length must be considered. In other words the wedge series needs to be slightly shorter to fit correctly. I would suggest trying a 15280 [28" X .4375"] or 15285 [28.5" X .4375"]. The slightly thinner automotive wedge belt will also increase the adjustment to allow it to idle at the stop sign and avoid slippage at higher speeds.

If more information is needed to adjust them correctly, just ask.

have fun,
 
Tail light

Its Here!! My new rear wheel arrived Wednesday. Got it thru Amazon. Says Weinmann on the rim, can't find any name on the coaster brake. 12 gauge spokes and it it looks pretty heavy duty. I guess I'll run it and find out. I'll have to tinker with the clutch and pulley adjustment cuz I can't get the belts to slip enough at idle. Drags down the engine and stalls it. Got the idle speed up pretty high right now, don't want it any higher.
While I'm rambling on anybody know of a fender mounted, led, tail light for cheap?
6V, 12V or battery?
Big Red.
 
New edition Whizzers are 12 V. Lights run off the alternator [regulated] when the motor is running and the battery with motor off. Lights will work with dead or missing battery when motor is running.

Have fun,
 
AH HA! now thats good news. So I can use any 12 volt tail light I want. Some dingbat before me cut all the wiring off this bike and took all the lights off. I have the wiring schematic (from you). Cool Now I can have a tail light.
I think somebody told me this way back but I forgot.
Thanks
Jim
 
I'm new to the whizzer bikes. I purchased a 1948 cantilever frame and having it dimpled. Need both frt and rear rims. Do I have to use schwinn s-2 rims on this? I bought new tires 26x2.125. What is the best rims to use and what are the ones to avoid. The spokes should be at least .080 correct? Like I said earlier, I'm a newbie to the Whizzer game. I have a H series motor and pretty much all the parts I need to assemble except the rims. I bought a rear stand, but was told I have to use a Bendix brake for the hardware to work. Any help would be appreciated.. Steve
 
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