help with my currie motor

Slickdude, Neon is absolutely correct. You should have 2 SLA (Sealed Lead Acid) batteries, 12V, 10A/h each. They are hooked up in series (negative to positive making a straight electrical run. Plug black wire to negative of battery 1, positive of battery 1 to negative of battery 2, positive of battery 2 back to plug on the red wire).

Voltage attempts to make a current flow, and current will flow if the circuit is complete. Voltage is sometimes described as the 'push' or 'force' of the electricity. Current is the rate of flow of charge.
Voltages add up for components connected in series.
Currents are the same through all components connected in series.

If you go to 36v in series you will have more get up and go, but range will not change. Go to 48V and you will shorten the life of your motor if not flat out kill it.
If you change to 12V 12A/h batteries, you will have more range and still should be in the "safe zone" for your bike. Go much higher on the amps and you will fry your controller if not the motor.
 
I suppose you could hook up 2 motors together in series in order to get 48v. I have never personally done it and i don't know of anyone that has done it. I've only seen two motors hooked in parallel and the voltage increased to 36v. As i've said before the controllers will handle 48v. They will actually handle 51v before they start to not function correctly. They will also handle 35 amp draw.
 
I had thought about hooking a 36v 15ah battery. That should give me a bit more power but mainly more range. I have found that riding at a constant 8mph allows me a range of around 11 to 12 miles before going red and that is on 8 month batteries. So far the recharges seem to be holding steady. I have considered either a Lithium Ion or a Lipo batt setup. I saw where you can run two leads black and red and cut a tie in on the left side near the motor from the currie mount. So it shouldn't be too hard of a mod. I believe Neon and Jaguar the motor is a 450watt brushed motor. I was hoping I could find a brushless that could replace it.

My other option would be to sell the Ezip, get a newer Mtn. Bike with dual suspension and then add a Bafang 500watt 48 volt with a Lipo and seat battery rack to that as a newer project. It is awefully tempting to just go the new built up route or maybe the other front gearless 1000watt setup with a lipo in 48volt. Then write the ezip off as the starter it was and leave it at that.
 
Slickdude, Neon is absolutely correct. You should have 2 SLA (Sealed Lead Acid) batteries, 12V, 10A/h each. They are hooked up in series (negative to positive making a straight electrical run. Plug black wire to negative of battery 1, positive of battery 1 to negative of battery 2, positive of battery 2 back to plug on the red wire).

Voltage attempts to make a current flow, and current will flow if the circuit is complete. Voltage is sometimes described as the 'push' or 'force' of the electricity. Current is the rate of flow of charge.
Voltages add up for components connected in series.
Currents are the same through all components connected in series.

If you go to 36v in series you will have more get up and go, but range will not change. Go to 48V and you will shorten the life of your motor if not flat out kill it.
If you change to 12V 12A/h batteries, you will have more range and still should be in the "safe zone" for your bike. Go much higher on the amps and you will fry your controller if not the motor.

Okay so here it comes my question. In that case, I have heard there is also a Lithium battery that will fit. Is there a lithium option that allows the 24volt 15 or 20ah option to fit within that case. I don't need speed as much as I require range and a longer life.

Also after a year, I noticed that my bike now surges and recedes or gaps where the battery pack isn't making a solid connection. Is this an indication the batteries are going bad? Or is it the connector?
 
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