Weed Eater Friction Drive Bicycle

Lookin Great!

Hi, landuse

Looks great! Thanks for the updates and the pictures.

What is the thickness of the plate you used for the U Channel? How did you cut the plate? Did you weld with MIG or gas or what?

Keep up the great work, the updates and thanks a lot for sharing! I'm eager to hear how it goes.
 
Hi, landuse

Looks great! Thanks for the updates and the pictures.

What is the thickness of the plate you used for the U Channel? How did you cut the plate? Did you weld with MIG or gas or what?

Keep up the great work, the updates and thanks a lot for sharing! I'm eager to hear how it goes.

Thanks BentTooner! The plate that I used was 3mm thick (sorry, I don't know the imperial size). I measured and marked out the 3 plates on a large sheet of plate steel, and then I actually used my angle grinder with a cutting blade to do te cutting. It doesn't give you the straightest edges, but it was all I had. I tried to make sure that at least one side of each plate was part of the original factory edge, so that I would have a straight side on each to weld to each other.

As for the welding, I have a 130Amp stick/Arc welder. I haven't been welding for that long (maybe a year) and I am still not so good at it. I think stick welding is probably the hardest of all the types of welding.

I got a little more done this weekend. I cut the 2 lengths ofmetal strips that will be attached to the U channel and to the sprocket area to tension the roller against the tyre. (I am not sure what they are called). I had to cut slots at the top of each so that I can tension the channel easily. I had to do this with a grinder again, so it doesn't look too pretty.....but it will work. When I went to the scrap metal yard a week or so ago, I also came across a mechanical drill press that you put your hand drill in. I didn't have a drill press cos they are too expensive, so I got this one for practically nothing. It works great!
 

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Those legs are called rear support struts, I believe.

With struts on, you can lift the steel channel and engine maybe 2". That's good enough to raise the roller off the tire.

What I did on my struts was to extend the slots ALL the way to the top edge. That way, I could raise the entire assembly off the struts and maybe 12" higher. That way, I can get to loosen/tighten those pesky motor mount bolts with ease. It also gets the engine WAY out of the way, if needed.

If you bolt a small fuel tank to the top or outboard side of the iron channel, the modified struts will allow you to access the mounting bolts. It'll also give you underside access to the from U-bracket nuts and bolts.
 
Hi, landuse

Thanks for the info.

VERY COOL drill press! What a find!

I think 3mm steel plate is 0.118" which is a little thinner than 1/8" (0.125") plate. I made a tadpole trike this summer and used 1/8" plate for the rear drop outs. I also cut it with an angle grinder and cut off wheel. It worked fine, as you said.

I used a MIG welder for the tadpole bike and it worked fine, too. I think you're right about stick welding being harder than MIG.

I made those support struts out of aluminum bars. I put them together and drilled a series of holes on a line and then filed out the holes to make a long slot. I didn't think of using the angle grinder.

You're really making progress. Do you think you'll be able to get good alignment on the bearing holes using your new drill press? I've found it hard to do that kind of stuff with my drill press.

Best of luck!
 
Do you think you'll be able to get good alignment on the bearing holes using your new drill press? I've found it hard to do that kind of stuff with my drill press.

I am going to take the channel to a machinist and get him to drill the bearing holes. I don't think I would ever get them lined up with the equipment that I have. I am actually going to take everything to him today, and hopefully soon I will have everything back to complete the build. He is also going to make the roller for me.
 
Yesterday I handed over my U channel to a machinist to drill the holes for the bearings and machine a roller for me. Because I am small fry business for him, I might have to wait a little bit before he gets the time to do my work. I will keep you all updated though on the progress.
 
landuse

What were the specs you gave the machinist for the roller? I'd be curious to know what he charges for the work.
 
landuse

What were the specs you gave the machinist for the roller? I'd be curious to know what he charges for the work.

I pretty much gave him freedom of choice as to what is easiest for him. I did specify the roller diameter as 3cm though. He said he might have to machine a new clutch drum, so I will see what he says when he gets back to me with a quote.

I will let you know what he says, and what work he will be doing as soon as I find out. I think there might be a bit of haggling about the price when he gets back to me. He is pretty reasonable though.
 
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Hi

Ok, thanks. It would be a fair amount of work to machine a drum, shaft and roller. I'm guessing you're going to have a steel shaft that threads into the drum and then the roller will be attached to the shaft in some way like with set screws? The roller will probably be knurled steel.

Hope he's reasonable.
 
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