Pusher Trailer (new build part 2)

lowracer

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I know, I know, I've been quoted as saying that I don't like pusher trailers my last thread http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=31149 , but I had this really sweet bike that I broke at the head tube a few years ago & kept for some odd reason. It was a Litespeed Blade 6/4 titanium aero time trial bike. I cutoff the top tube & downtube. Take a look at the few pics I took. I had 2 extra 700c wheels laying around & one of them already has the 'Rim2Rim Lowracer Pulley System'. It has dual rear wheels mounted fairly close together (avoiding needing a jackshaft to center the engine). Each wheel is attached now at only one side of the rear dropouts. I would mount some aluminum 'L' angle bar to the opposite side of each wheel to brace the wheels & create a low engine mount. I have some ideas about how to center mount the engine & run a v-belt to the left wheel. I haven't invested any money or time into the project yet, but its got me thinking...
(The 4th pic isn't where it would be mounted, just needed a place to rest the thing. It would need another section to leave room for the engine between the bikes rear wheel & the trailer axles)
Cheers,
-Lowracer-
 

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Where did you get the belt-drive parts for the last trailer? (The rear wheel pulley, belt, and belt-drive centrifugal clutch.) I've got a friction drive rear mount that I'd like to convert to a belt drive.
 
CroMagnum,
The rear pulley was purchased off eBay by searching for 'Whizzer Sheave'. I didnt like the sheave much & sold it (hard to get perfectly aligned, gearing too tall & not fond of spoke connection), the belt is an AX cogged std size v-belt (cogged wraps small pulley better than uncogged) & the clutch was a STD MaxTorque clutch that I ended up sending to max torque for an upgrade (bronze bushing to precision sealed cartridge bearings (worth the extra $40).
Here is a link to a few of my pertinent treads: http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=30208
http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=31691
I've since sold that Lifan 2.5 engine & clutch. Now I have 3 upgraded Pocket bike engines, a Subaru Robin EH035 & a Tanaka 33.
-Lowracer-
 
Got some more ideas for building this pusher thing.
I wont be using the titanium bicycle frame at all.
Priced out some 1 X 1 X 1/4" angle aluminum today along with some 1 X 1/4" aluminum flat bar. I'm thinking of building a triangulated 3D frame similar to what you see on a Crane, Ducati frame trellis or Moulton bicycle. By using aluminum, it will still be lightweight but very strong. Also going to use one 650c wheel instead of dual 700c wheels.
Will be swivel mounted to the seatpost similar to what I did on the 1st pusher project using a bicycle stem to hold a 100mm wheel hub for the up & down motion. Then a shim on the seatpost for the steerer tube hole w/grease on the seatpost for the side to side motion.
I also checked out some 3/4" & 1" metal conduit today & may use some of that stuff to attach the hitch to the trailer (in a straight line).
I think it would be cool to have a totally seperate motorized unit that is portable & can be attached to any bike in a matter of a minute by removing the seatpost & far right handlebar end mounted brake lever (throttle) mounted backwards using one 5mm allen key...
-Lowracer-
 
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Ok,
I spent some more time thinking this thing thru. Drew up a simple plan using angle aluminum (drilling holes attached w/ nuts & bolts (no welding)). Sticking with my favorite Pocket Bike Cag Stage 2 engines run thru a V-Belt to a 'Lowracer Rim2Rim Wheel Pulley System'. The hitch is also a past idea I employed using a steerer stem mounted to the seatpost via shim (27.2 post/28.6 shim & grease) & a front hub in the 31.8 handlebar mount. This allows the necessary up & down motion & left to right motion. The frame sections of angle aluminum will have a fair bit of cross bracing (not in drawing). I may have enough space to mount an auxiliary fuel tank should the need arise for longer travel distances.
Enjoy the pics,
-Lowracer-
 

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Not sure if I should run the top mount perfectly horizontal to the ground, or on an angle downward from the seatpost mount to just above the driven wheel axle?
Any suggestions?
see pics
-Lowracer-
 

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In anticipation of one day building a pusher trailer, I picked up an Adams Trail-A-Bike that I found on Craigslist for $20. The Trail-A-Bike comes with a seat post mounted trailer hitch and a beautifully curved frame tube that readily lends itself to a pusher trailer. Basically you just chop off the rear near the pedals and weld on a motor plate and rear wheel mount.

It's kind of funny - the guy was asking $100. But the handle bars were missing and the seat was rotted. Then I pointed out how the chain and rim were rusted and how much it was going to cost me to replace all that stuff. What he didn't realize was I was going to throw all that away anyway, so I ended up grinding him down to $20.

But then there was no trailer hitch!! He didn't know where it was, so I suggested looking on the seat post of his wife's bike. And there it was, just as some other guy was buying it!! What a minute, the Trail-A-Bike is no good without that hitch, so he had to run down the street and catch the guy on his wife's bike to retrieve the hitch.

The seller sure had to work hard for his $20. But now I have an Adams Trail-A-Bike - with hitch - squirreled away for a future pusher project. :D

Here's a Youtube link of a pusher made from a Trail-A-Bike. It sure eliminates a lot of fabrication. And if you're going to use a spoke bicycle wheel like in your diagram, you could probably just bolt the motor to the frame with almost no fabrication whatsoever!!
 
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CroMagnum,
You got a heck of a deal on the Trail-A-Bike!
I have thought of getting a pre-made setup, but had much success using the steerer stem to seatpost mount, clamping a front weel hub under the removeable 4 bolt face plate. I wanna keep this thing totally homegrown (ghetto engineering)...lol.
I'll get furthur into this project once I return from winter break, but am leaning toward the parallel to the ground top beam design.
I am looking forward to seeing what you come up with using the Trail-A-Bike.
-Lowracer-
 
Ok,
I ordered up the aluminum yesterday & am going with 1" x 1" x 1/4" angle aluminum.
Got (5) 60" lengths of angle aluminum & (1) 60" length of 1" x 1/4" aluminum flat bar to tie crossbeams. Already mounted the hitch to bike & took a few shots. Will be changing out the handlebar for some wider riser MTB bars & wheelset. Also ordered a new wheelset yesterday. Going with black Sun Rhyno Lite 27mm rims w/Shimano XT 6 bolt black disc hubs, 32 DT 2.0 black spokes. Might need some Maxxis DH Tubes & meaty CST Cyclops 2.4 tires to go along with the black wheelset?
-Lowracer-
 

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Quick Release Throttle Lever

One of the reasons I am building this Super-Lightweight Pusher Trailer is its ease of switching from one bike to another & ease of removing it from a bike altogether. Here is a pic of the throttle. It is simply another brake lever mounted backwards onto the right-side handlebar end. This way it can be removed easily with one 5mm allen key & switched to any bike in minutes. Also needed is a small screwdriver to loosen the 2 seatpost hose clamps, opening a quick release to remove the hitch (steerer stem & shim) from the seatpost & a few velcro straps that hold the throttle cable onto the bike & trailer framework.
Once I get this thing built, I'll get it onto a scale for the weigh-in.
-Lowracer-
 

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