modding a daemon friction drive to a for a cy460r

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Jim Holister Racing. Rocks, Jim is an awsome guy ive ridden with him once before at one of the local group rides. But thats as far as i knew him before today, He just spent the better part of three hours on my spindle today and I cant shout his praises loud enough.

Awesome repair job and spindle mod!:bowdown:
 
thanks man

Awesome repair job and spindle mod!:bowdown:

I like it a lot. Ive got to play with the spacers a bit because it binds when tight but its really solid! The hardened steel was really hard to lathe it took 3 hours to get it right. But im happy with how it came out its just as i pictured it.
 
The 47R was designed for a gokart and scooter, so it's a people mover.:devilish:

I was lucky enough to find a ported 47R on your goped site, also a brand new 47R elsewhere. They have a few Tanaka parts online, so that's a plus.

I like both engines, but have had bad luck with 460 clutch springs.:sick:

But how much were those 47r's? One was ported but still used im interested in your thoughts of the ported 47. Lol everyone has clutch spring problems on the 460 its just not enough material to handle that power for too long especially if the drum isnt tru to the pads. Im hoping that using the dual bearing housing from the 460 will fix that problem. Pocket bike clutches will work on the 460, its an option you can look at. The expensive ceramic ones are best.
 
But how much were those 47r's? One was ported but still used im interested in your thoughts of the ported 47. Lol everyone has clutch spring problems on the 460 its just not enough material to handle that power for too long especially if the drum isnt tru to the pads. Im hoping that using the dual bearing housing from the 460 will fix that problem. Pocket bike clutches will work on the 460, its an option you can look at. The expensive ceramic ones are best.

I was lucky to buy a used one on that site for $120. It was ported by ADHD Racing and has more oomph than the one I use now. I bought the new one for $350 complete. Both were excellent deals.

I've used 3000rpm OEM-style clutch springs. They're excellent for motorized bicycles, but they break and leave me stranded. I've also tried pocket bike clutches. They grab right off-idle and are silky smooth, but the clutch spring falls off the post. I'm thinking what happens is that the spring simply slips off its post or outa the hole. Then it falls off and lodges between clutch and drum. The engine won't idle, but you can run it until the spring grinds down to little pieces.

For those who don't know, it's very similar to breaking the clutch in your standard-shift car and hobbling home.

If I pedalled from a standing stop, the 460 clutch/pocketbike clutch might work. I've never had clutch problems with the Tanaka. Maybe it's because of the single-spring setup. If I could retrofit a dependable clutch on the 460, I'd run them.

Since the 460 is not dependable for me, my next project is a twin-460 engine project. If one clutch breaks, I'll get home on the other engine.
 
I like it a lot. Ive got to play with the spacers a bit because it binds when tight but its really solid! The hardened steel was really hard to lathe it took 3 hours to get it right. But im happy with how it came out its just as i pictured it.

LOL, it binds when tight.

That almost ALWAYS happens to me. It's a real PITA if it happens to you on the older Staton gearbox or the twin-engined gearbox. You have to split the gearbox to clear the trouble(space/shim).

Always check if the pullstart turns the engine, while tightening the four mounting bolts. Then you'll know if/when the engine binds or not.

Happens to me often, lol.:cry:
 
LOL, it binds when tight.

That almost ALWAYS happens to me. It's a real PITA if it happens to you on the older Staton gearbox or the twin-engined gearbox. You have to split the gearbox to clear the trouble(space/shim).

Always check if the pullstart turns the engine, while tightening the four mounting bolts. Then you'll know if/when the engine binds or not.

Happens to me often, lol.:cry:

Thats not where its binding there is no motor on it yet lol. The spacers just need adjustment. It will still spin just not freely its kinda like the bearing is shot but its not its just pressure. I may need to take a lil more metal away from the mount. But no biggie thats what files are for. Im still adjusting fittment but it looks great!
 
hey 5-7

I was lucky to buy a used one on that site for $120. It was ported by ADHD Racing and has more oomph than the one I use now. I bought the new one for $350 complete. Both were excellent deals.

I've used 3000rpm OEM-style clutch springs. They're excellent for motorized bicycles, but they break and leave me stranded. I've also tried pocket bike clutches. They grab right off-idle and are silky smooth, but the clutch spring falls off the post. I'm thinking what happens is that the spring simply slips off its post or outa the hole. Then it falls off and lodges between clutch and drum. The engine won't idle, but you can run it until the spring grinds down to little pieces.

For those who don't know, it's very similar to breaking the clutch in your standard-shift car and hobbling home.

If I pedalled from a standing stop, the 460 clutch/pocketbike clutch might work. I've never had clutch problems with the Tanaka. Maybe it's because of the single-spring setup. If I could retrofit a dependable clutch on the 460, I'd run them.

Since the 460 is not dependable for me, my next project is a twin-460 engine project. If one clutch breaks, I'll get home on the other engine.

Here you go try one of these
http://www.chopperbikesales.com/2SHOECLUTCH.html
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I bought one that looked like that. However, the 460 engine has a tapered crank nose, so that one would not slip on.

I guess if I had the clutch's center machined for a taper, it might fit and work.

Your goped site has a wealth of information, especially on engines w/76mm clutches. Has anyone modified a clutch to fit the 460, other than the pocket bike's?
 
Thats not where its binding there is no motor on it yet lol. The spacers just need adjustment. It will still spin just not freely its kinda like the bearing is shot but its not its just pressure. I may need to take a lil more metal away from the mount. But no biggie thats what files are for. Im still adjusting fittment but it looks great!

Yeah, I know you'll get it done.:D
 
I bought one that looked like that. However, the 460 engine has a tapered crank nose, so that one would not slip on.

I guess if I had the clutch's center machined for a taper, it might fit and work.

Your goped site has a wealth of information, especially on engines w/76mm clutches. Has anyone modified a clutch to fit the 460, other than the pocket bike's?

Not to my knowledge no but you could use the ceramic high $ one from ddm on an rc motor and 54mm bell
 
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