modding a daemon friction drive to a for a cy460r

dchevygod

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I got this kit on ebay with a china **** gx31 clone. The clutchbell was warped snapping my spindle, fixed the spindle and snapped my crankshaft all before the second tank of fuel was gone! The engine is trash except for maybe parts and im left with this flawed mount. The issue is the bearing on the clutchbell side is moving inside the mount. Im going to remove that bearing, trim away some material on the mount make some spacers for the housing and shorten, lathe and add some setscrews to the spindle so I can use the double bearing clutchbell housing that comes on a chung yang 460. Im gonna get a goped 1.5L tank mounted opposite of the motor on the rack mount. After initial install im going to have a cool guy I met on gopednation "Cablescum" port the topend, though I don't want to mod the exhaust so its still legal and isn't too terribly loud. This engine is rated at 4.2 hp stock so with porting and a hp air filter im guessing 4.5+ hp. With the gx31 my bike only did 21mph with the 1" spindle! Im guessing probably more like 40-42mph with the 460:cool:

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i dont have the $$$!

Or i would get a Staton kit. this one i have is very similar in design tho. I got some done to it, widened the hole for the bearing on the clutch side so the slightly trimmed bell housing fits in true. All i need now are 4, 1" spacers and a custom spindle. Problems solved!, Now im ready for a fuel tank and my 460!:cool:
 
Be sure you have two support struts, on on both sides of the wheel.

I left on support strut off and snapped two Staton spindles.Fortunately, it did not snap My engine's crankshaft.
 
that must have been part of the problem

This kit only came with a single strut " long threaded rod i couldnt use because the brake caliper is in the way" so i used a turn buckle and i think i had it too tight. Thanks for the advise 5-7heaven! Much appreciated. Im going to make a different strut system utilizing the tabs on the frame ment for brake arms " i have disk brakes that get in the way of using the axle as a mounting point " it shouldnt be hard the mount lines up with the tabs perfectly! This is much heavier than a staton kit but NOW it should be stronger than one as well. Ill post pics after i get the spindle made and installed.
 
Be sure you have two support struts, on on both sides of the wheel.

I left on support strut off and snapped two Staton spindles.Fortunately, it did not snap My engine's crankshaft.

I think the crank snapped because i didnt just replace the spindle i had it lathed and used a piece of 3/8" treaded rod to reattach the bell. It was stronger than the stock spindle and thats why i snapped the crank and not the spindle the second time it failed. The way the engine was attached to the channel there was no way to center the engine on the clutchbell? The clutch housing im using centers the motor so ill not have the same clutch noise i did before.
 
This kit only came with a single strut " long threaded rod i couldnt use because the brake caliper is in the way" so i used a turn buckle and i think i had it too tight. Thanks for the advise 5-7heaven! Much appreciated. Im going to make a different strut system utilizing the tabs on the frame ment for brake arms " i have disk brakes that get in the way of using the axle as a mounting point " it shouldnt be hard the mount lines up with the tabs perfectly! This is much heavier than a staton kit but NOW it should be stronger than one as well. Ill post pics after i get the spindle made and installed.

You're welcome, and good luck.
 
i found a guy with a lathe in his garage

Ready for the spindle

You guys know what this used to be. now as you can see it is way more well built than it was. This clutchbell housing has dual bearings and it centers the engine. The ring that came stock allowed the engine to move while it was tightened " i had bad clutch noise and it shook is self apart " Im confident this F/D is good to put a 460 on now. And before with the gx31 there was too much torque for it. On friday im going clear across phoenix to get this spindle modified

7/8" spindle to be modified

I also want a 1.25" spindle. The bmp spindle is really close to what ill need if it was bored to 5/8" from 1/2" and a shank on one end for the 3rd bearing"5/8"x7/16".
 
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Ready for the spindle

You guys know what this used to be. now as you can see it is way more well built than it was. This clutchbell housing has dual bearings and it centers the engine. The ring that came stock allowed the engine to move while it was tightened " i had bad clutch noise and it shook is self apart " Im confident this F/D is good to put a 460 on now. And before with the gx31 there was too much torque for it. On friday im going clear across phoenix to get this spindle modified

7/8" spindle to be modified

I also want a 1.25" spindle. The bmp spindle is really close to what ill need if it was bored to 5/8" from 1/2" and a shank on one end for the 3rd bearing"5/8"x7/16".

Did you know that Staton and BMP friction spindles and bearings are interchangeable into either drive housings.....as drive units? Staton clutch drum mates perfectly with Staton rollers and 5/8" x 1 3/8" bearings. BMP clutch drum mates with 1/2" OD driveshaft, 1.25" BMP spindle and 1/2" x 1 3/8" bearings. However, Staton clutch drum will not interchange with BMP clutch drum, etc.

When using Staton spindle in BMP housing, a simple bearing retainer must be installed on the outboard bearing.

FWIW, All of these components MIGHT bolt onto your friction drive housing.
 
Not any more 5-7 the bearing hole was wollered out on the clutch side. I had to enlargen it so the housing fit in true. This is the only way to Make this f-d oporational again. The custom spindle will look like a cross between a staton and a bmp, bmp setscrew style but opened up to 5/8" on the clutch side staton style with a shank for the bearing on the other side. It5 makes perfect sense to me when its finished the pics will explain.
 
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