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08-01-2011 #1MBc Member
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Treewk's Double Right-side Drive A Charm
I ordered all the parts for Treewk's double right hand drive, cvt and bicycle sprockets on the right side, and just put it all together, It went like a charm. A great innovation, works beautifully. Thanks Treewk!
Do you suppose you can list out the supplier(s), part #s, and links to the parts???
I finally read that "CVT's and Comet drivelines" thread, but I wasn't seeing ALL the parts spelled out for dummies like me.
These posts seem to be relevant, but no part #s, and others mention that they're listed elsewhere (sometimes in a sticky?) but I'm just not seeing it...
I'm guessing the organized parts list is in an alternate universe??
09-06-2011 #3Here Are The Part Numbers And Suppliers For The Freewheel Spacers And Coupler. The Bottom Bracket Kits Are From "bike Parts Usa". `pyramed Bb Cup Set`. Enter This In The Search Box. The Kits Are Still $3.66. Now The Kit Comes With A Lock Nut That Could Be Used In Place Of The 1/8" Thick Spacer, Saving You $10. Plus Shipping. I Used The The Right Hand Threaded Sleeve To Couple The Free Wheels. The Other 1/16" Thick Spacer Comes From "mcmaster Carr" ( A Great Place To Buy Metric And Standard Bolts, Nuts, Threaded Rod For Head, Motor Mt Studs Etc.) The 1/16" (.062) Part # 3088a475 = 10/$9.26. The 1/8" (.125") Thick Spacers Part # 3088a519 = 10/$9.95. The 20 Spacers Cost Me $25. With S/h. Like I Day Service. With My Debit Card. I APOLIGIZE FOR NOT POSTING THIS INFO IN THE BEGINNING. I GUESS I DID NOT EXPECT THIS MUCH INTEREST. FEEL FREE TO POST QUESTIONS OR PM`S. RON.
(2) 1/16 inch shim -- http://www.mcmaster.com/#3088a475
(3) 1/8 inch shim -- http://www.mcmaster.com/#3088a519
(4) scooter free wheel -- ebay has some (and these "front crank freewheels" might work, too??) [also can use the space between the teeth of a regular 16t freewhel to match up with a large sprocket that has a 4-bolt hole pattern... just add 4 bolts]
(5) large sprocket -- thatsdax?? I've already got a sprocket, so I didn't really pay too much attention to where to get one, but I'm sure somebody can chime in with more options on sprockets.
One of you guys feel like showing us a pic of the wheel when it's off the bike???
What type of hub is that? Anything special? A typical 26" single speed rear wheel/hub??
In other words: How did you get the dishing, chain line correct??
EDIT: Also, why even get the 1/8" shims if you really only need 3 x 1/16" shims??
And does the inner freewheel come off easily with the 1/16" shim?? Anybody ever tried??
Last edited by sparky; 09-06-2011 at 01:23 AM.
Using two 1/16" shim`s to replace a 1/8" works for me! lol.
I posted somewhere, maybe other forum, that the large motor driven wheel sprocket could be moved to the inside (spoke side) of the adapter. Then the 1/8" spacer would not be required, it was installed because the derailier arm hit the large sprocket and would not keep the pedal chain properly aligned.
Moving the large sprocket to the spoke side of the adapter should give the derailier arm the heeded clearance. But I never did that.
By leaving the 1/8" spacer out, more threads are available for holding the 2 freewheel bearing`s together.
I used a regular bicycle wheel with no dish mods, used a cassette socket ($5 for a used one from bike shop mechanic, new = $8.) to remove 7 speed cassete.
The 16 tooth (or what ever tooth count you use) freewheel sprocket on the rear wheel is very hard steel, a hand file will not make a mark. If you use the multi speed chain you will need the the freewheel sprocket with the 3/32"wide teeth. If you have 1/8" teeth use a bmx pedal chain.
I have not tried to remove the freewheel unit from the wheel. Am thinking it will not be a problem and it may have helped the tire/chain clearance. The main reason for the 1/16" spacer was to get more threads available for the freewheel coupler threaded sleeve ( the bb part).
PS If the freewheel bearing are flipped over they will rachet in the wrong direction.
09-06-2011 #6MBc Member
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I just have two comments: I found the 1/8 inch washer was necessary to separate the two drive chains. Otherwise, they can come too close to each other. I used grease when assembling the hub, just in case I had to disassemble the parts.
Good idea on the grease. Hopefully I'll remember to apply some to the threads when I get my wheel next week!!
For one of the first times in my life, I went to the bicycle shop and they actually had what I wanted. Got two plastic spacers that were maybe 1/8" wide. I wonder if a plastic or metal shim shim inside the inner freewheel would provide for "easier" release. Guess we'll see.
Well.... somehow my custom-made stainless hub doesn't have enough room for me to put anything more than my two freewheels. So I have no shims on my setup.
I replaced the Chinese freewheel (like the ones that can be found on ebay, above) with a 16t Excess freewheel with that Sprocket fit over it and bolted onto the teeth of the Excess. It's probly about the same width as the one it replaced. The other freewheel is an ACS Fat Claws for my pedals. It has a bit more "grip" for the freewheel removal tool that I could grind off, but I have no interest in that right now. It works, tho it seems like there's a slight extra grind when I'm pedaling now.
The plastic spacers I have are too thick, so I might grind them both down to half their width, and possibly replace the ACS freewheel with another Excess. The Excess is pretty thin and the removal tool design is pretty slick. I guess I'll just see how they work out, but it's good to be up and running again.
The WheelMaster did an excellent job on my wheel. The ride feels more "solid", and bumps that used to frighten me are no problem at all now. Kinda weird how my ride quality has gone from riding in a Pinto to a BMW. Didn't expect all that.
03-04-2012 #9MBc Newbie
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As I posted over in the intro section http://www.motoredbikes.com//showthread.php?t=36944 I'm considering a CVT build like this one as a first build. I am experienced mechanically just not motorized bicycles. I have a Dahon Mariner, at least 10 years old. Looking for 25-26 mph top speed and decent hill-climbing capability for a 175 lb rider. Keeping the fold-up feature is a big plus, as I will continue to haul the bike in a minivan on trips. Reliability is also important, as I will not have shop facilities when travelling.
I'm considering either this CVT version or a Stanton outside drive kit.
I have spent a lot of time and effort studying TREEWK's build and other info, but if I go this way I would appreciate other eyes on this. I will check on the availability of the rear motor mount at Bicycle-Engines.com but may build my own. I would remove the deraileur and shifter and go with a single pedal speed and replace the chain.
49cc X1 X2 Ninja Pocket Bike CVT Transmission Gearbox TM03 eBay $49.95
shipping eBay $0.00
11T 8MM T8F 05T Steel Sprocket thatsdax $7.99
T8F 8MM 05T CHAIN 100 LINKS 62 IN/160CM LENGTH thatsdax $16.99
THROTTLE GRIP, KILL SWITCH, AND 59 INCH THROTTLE CABLE COMPLETE thatsdax $16.99
shipping thatsdax $9.00
8mm Chain Sprocket - 54 Tooth, 2-9/16" Mounting Hole Circle (x4 holes) Monster Scooter Parts $14.99
Rear Freewheel Assembly Monster Scooter Parts $12.99
shipping Monster Scooter Parts $9.10
Pyramid Bb Cup Set, 1.37x24, Eng BikePartsUSA $5.23
Pyramid 22 tooth freewheel, 1/2 x 1/8in. BikePartsUSA $12.16
Park Tool Fr-1 Freewheel Remover Fits Shimano Uni BikePartsUSA $8.80
Kmc Quality Chain 1/2x1/8 Nickel/black 112l BikePartsUSA $8.38
Kmc 1/2x1/8, 41oh, Chrome Chain Link BikePartsUSA $2.08
shipping BikePartsUSA $6.95
Honda 1.6hp GX35 OHC Mini 4 Stroke Clutch-Drive Small Engine Warehouse $225.00
shipping Small Engine Warehouse $15.95
rear engine mount ? $50.00
I would appreciate any omissions, corrections, thoughts.
D i c k
Don`t get on the forums much lately, did read your first post early today and just caught your second post in the "New Posts". Looks like you are doing your reading!
The "bicycle engines" mount is still good, but I like the double set of legs that came with my purchase = 2 sets of legs per mount= 8 legs per mount = different lengths. A lot of stuff for $49.99!!
Now it has a different set of support legs = 2 legs for each side. Still would be my choice for a rack mount.
I used stock wheels off a common 7 speed bike for my two cvt rack builds. The derailier was for chain tension only, single pedal speed.
If you don`t go with the cvt tranny, I would highly reccomend the little reverse rotation 5:1 pocket bike gear box, a tuff well built unit for about $30 delivered to your door.
It is one speed. On the other forum it is geared to total ratio of 18:1 and works well in my "DIY Axle Mount" build. It tops out at 35 mph with 180 lb rider with the Titan 49cc 4 stroke from Dax.
The 5:1 tranny could be mounted like my cvt rack builds, but off set about 3 inches to the left to align chain and sprockets. If you opt for smaller engine cc you just need to have gear ratio to compensate.
Have been happy with the cvt builds, but don`t have many miles on them, mostly ride my Diy Shifter Bike with the 5:1 tranny. My current "slow build" lol, is a Stretch Cruiser with a 140cc 4 stroke Honda clone and a go cart cvt with primary and secondary belt drive. Too big for your Mini Van.
If my memory is correct, you have a Damon fold up. Did buy a used one with an Island Hopper Friction Drive, SS Marine Fold-up with a shifter cassette, don`t remember which way it folds = for the axle mount. The axle mount is easy to remove and replace and cheap to build, if you have a left hand thread on the left side of wheel hub.
A front wheel right side drive could be easily fabricated with any engine with the 76/78mm internal clutch with the 5:1 tranny and a rear wheel with the cassette removed for the freewheel adapter and sprocket (front wheel drive). Did some post`s with my alum mounts made cheap at sheet metal shop from cut off scraps, less than $20 each with some 1/4 x 1" x 18" support legs (prefer 1" wide supports in place of the common 3/4") Had extra legs cut to make shorter spring loaded chain tensioner arms.
Hope this helps.
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