Kill Switch Wiring

Ok nothing was said about a kill switch that has a black and yellow wire ?thats what comeing out of my kill sitch

Two wires are needed if the place you're mounting the killswitch is a not very well grounded location, like maybe a painted handlebar.:geek:

FWIW, I just ordered a 2-wire killswitch from SBP. The reason I need this is because I insulated the engine from the bike frame. Since the frame is now not a very good conductor, one wire of the killswitch will bolt onto the engine block, the other wire splices to the OEM engine killswitch(doesn't matter which color wire goes where for my application).:unsure:
 
another method that works (though I don't know if it has any negatives of its own) is to choke the motor off-- I've done it a couple times, and it works just fine, though I usually just use the kill switch...

and then there are all the times I accidentally stall it taking off at a green light. Probably do that once a ride during my 15 miles commute...
 
does anyone know what gauge the wires are? I want to hide my wiring as much as possible, found a spot or two, but I would need to extend the wiring.
 
whatever is handy thatis thick enough to work with, ie, not headphone wire.

thicker maybe bettererer... just lower resistance and all that but its not exactly a high current or critical application...
 
does anyone know what gauge the wires are? I want to hide my wiring as much as possible, found a spot or two, but I would need to extend the wiring.

I replace the stock magneto to CDI wires with this very flexible shielded 16 gauge black speaker wire.

wiring2014.jpg


And use these little boxes to cover the connection on every 2-stroke I build, I just don't always put a keylock in it like this one.

CDIkc1.jpg


I originally put the keylock in series with the blue wire but there is no need to run the ignition current through the switch.

Now I just treat the keylock the same as a kill button, it just shorts out black and blue with a key operated switch.

If this had a keylock it would be in the corner of the box on this flush side just to the left of the spark plug wire in the pic.

CDIkc2.jpg


The other side as mentioned is a bit wider for the cable to the magneto and cable to the kill button which you actually don't need to hook up if don't want to, the keylock will kill your engine.

CDIkc3.jpg


You then route the wire however you want to the magneto and solder them to the magneto coil.

CDI2.jpg


Note I cut the white aux wire off every coil and in fact the newest Skyhawk magnetos don't even have a white wire.

This is same setup with a keylock on the CDI.

keydone.jpg


It won't keep a thief from stealing your bike, but it will keep him from starting it without a new CDI if you epoxy that cover onto the CDI ;-}

Top it off with a BPR7HIX Iridium spark plug and you will feel the difference in your engine performance. It's not a huge boost like an expansion chamber exhaust, but enough to feel and why I make it standard equipment on every build.
 
In short if you take a little extra time you can make most every cable and wire blend in no matter how many you have.

2_BluePantera2SDDL-1280.jpg


This is an extreme example of cable matching and hiding.

2_CaddyDoneLeftBasket.gif


8 cables and wires from the handlebars leaving room for a removable basket, the ignition wiring, and odd rear mounted gas tank line.

It's amazing what a few bucks and some time can do to make your build 'picture perfect' which is what I strive for as a picture really is worth a 1,000 words, I just take fancy pictures ;-}
 
I replace the stock magneto to CDI wires with this very flexible shielded 16 gauge black speaker wire.

wiring2014.jpg


And use these little boxes to cover the connection on every 2-stroke I build, I just don't always put a keylock in it like this one.

CDIkc1.jpg


I originally put the keylock in series with the blue wire but there is no need to run the ignition current through the switch.

Now I just treat the keylock the same as a kill button, it just shorts out black and blue with a key operated switch.

If this had a keylock it would be in the corner of the box on this flush side just to the left of the spark plug wire in the pic.

CDIkc2.jpg


The other side as mentioned is a bit wider for the cable to the magneto and cable to the kill button which you actually don't need to hook up if don't want to, the keylock will kill your engine.

CDIkc3.jpg


You then route the wire however you want to the magneto and solder them to the magneto coil.

CDI2.jpg


Note I cut the white aux wire off every coil and in fact the newest Skyhawk magnetos don't even have a white wire.

This is same setup with a keylock on the CDI.

keydone.jpg


It won't keep a thief from stealing your bike, but it will keep him from starting it without a new CDI if you epoxy that cover onto the CDI ;-}

Top it off with a BPR7HIX Iridium spark plug and you will feel the difference in your engine performance. It's not a huge boost like an expansion chamber exhaust, but enough to feel and why I make it standard equipment on every build.



DAMN NICE BUILD!!!!!! I was tinkering today and I found a small enough hole in the backbone that I can run my wiring through. Will have to probably push them through one by one but it's doable. :D thanks and good lookin out
 
DAMN NICE BUILD!!!!!! I was tinkering today and I found a small enough hole in the backbone that I can run my wiring through. Will have to probably push them through one by one but it's doable.
Thanks for the Kudos ;-}
Through the tube wiring is nice if it were going to be the only cable showing, but the clutch cable and usually a rear shifter cable go on there anyway so adding a nice black cable with them is nothing.
 
Fisherman +1.

IYDM, kill switch should be wired so when bike is at hitch post, no one can start engine and walk away. Add extra step, but does reduce problems and is so easy.
 
I have read a lot of post about which wires to hook your kill switch to. Some say connect it like your manual says to:

CDI Blue to Engine Blue
CDI Black to Engine Black
Kill switch Yellow/red to Engine White
Kill Switch Green to Ground


Some people say this:

Don't connect the kill button to the white wire! (It can sometimes short out the mag coil!)
Connect the kill wires to the blacks & blues, & cap off the white wire!!


I am not sure what is the correct way. I want to use a kill switch, but I don't want to damage either the cdi or mag. Can anyone shed some light on these 2 ways or other ways of hooking up a kill switch? Thanks for the help & suggestions

Pete
cut that white wire off and don't use it at all. it is a weak at best wire for a headlight or tail light. if you try to use it, it will rob you of spark performance and your bike will run s**tty.
 
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