Molotov256
Member
Having moved the same HT motor between 4 or 5 different frames, I've come to the conclusion that I hate the stock motor mount system. As pointed out by member Al.Fisherman, the engines are intended to be mounted in a frame with a 75 degree angle, which just isn't too realistic.
Anyhow, I got an idea from another MB forum to use hockey pucks and U bolts. If you're interested, a couple members on that forum have found success with the hockey puck method. It didn't work well for me, though, because the give of the rubber allowed the motor to torque side to side to some extent, and that of course leads to chain issues, so I went back to the drawing board.
First of all, I drilled and tapped the rear mount stud holes to take Metric #8 bolts. Then I picked up a length of 2" wide 3/16" thick welding steel, cut off an 8.5" piece, and carefully measured and drilled holes to bolt the steel to the existing mount holes. I also had to grind a little bit off one side to clear the guard around where the chain feeds into the drive cog. After that, I again carefully measured and drilled holes to accommodate some 1" u bolts. For rust protection, I spraybombed it, and then bolted it all together. Pictures below.
To use this method on a bike with wider frame tubes, one would have to find some wider steel to work with, and more cutting and grinding would be required to fabricate a piece that can attach to the OEM mount stud holes and still clear the chain and other engine contours. Still, it's working REALLY well for me so far, and if it saves the heartache of thrown chains and broken motor mount studs, I think it'd be well worth it.
So is it overkill? Possibly. But there's absolutely NO lateral sway in the motor now, so I consider it a victory. It was also a very cost effective solution. About $9 for the steel, and the 1" U Bolts were 85 cents each. Woot!
Anyhow, I got an idea from another MB forum to use hockey pucks and U bolts. If you're interested, a couple members on that forum have found success with the hockey puck method. It didn't work well for me, though, because the give of the rubber allowed the motor to torque side to side to some extent, and that of course leads to chain issues, so I went back to the drawing board.
First of all, I drilled and tapped the rear mount stud holes to take Metric #8 bolts. Then I picked up a length of 2" wide 3/16" thick welding steel, cut off an 8.5" piece, and carefully measured and drilled holes to bolt the steel to the existing mount holes. I also had to grind a little bit off one side to clear the guard around where the chain feeds into the drive cog. After that, I again carefully measured and drilled holes to accommodate some 1" u bolts. For rust protection, I spraybombed it, and then bolted it all together. Pictures below.
To use this method on a bike with wider frame tubes, one would have to find some wider steel to work with, and more cutting and grinding would be required to fabricate a piece that can attach to the OEM mount stud holes and still clear the chain and other engine contours. Still, it's working REALLY well for me so far, and if it saves the heartache of thrown chains and broken motor mount studs, I think it'd be well worth it.
So is it overkill? Possibly. But there's absolutely NO lateral sway in the motor now, so I consider it a victory. It was also a very cost effective solution. About $9 for the steel, and the 1" U Bolts were 85 cents each. Woot!