Anything that can go wrong will.

With my 2 bikes the only time they see a wrench is when its time to adjust some thing. Thats 1 of the advantages of a friction drive just gas n go.
 
Take the time to try to do it right. Us old guys tend to take more time to figure things out. Experience is one reason, the other is, we don't heal up like we used to. I read posts for months before I did my first build and ut helped minimized problems. There is a lot of great information here. Once I got everythings dialed in I haven't had to do hardly anything for the past year. I always do a "preflight" to make sure everything appears to be tight and where it should be. Do a lot of reading and you'll do a lot less fixing. Good Luck, Dan
 
nope, i don't have any problems with mine at all. (chinese 50 c.c. slant head 2 stroke) been riding it on and off for about a year now and i have not had one problem.
other than going over it every once in awhile to check for anything loose, or to modify something to make it look or perform better, i don't have to tinker with my engine.
i took my time when i built it, took the time to route all the wires and tie them down, i also cut off the cheap plug in connectors and soldered all of the electrical connections.
I did the standard engine break in, running it at 16:1 for awhile (about 3 tanks full), varying the rpms as i rode, limited ride time to about 15-20 min. each time out, and let the engine cool down for a few hours before riding it again.
i took the time to tune the carb. and that was the one thing that took the most time and patience.
I put on an expansion chamber, and a high flow air filter after the break in period was over. threw the stock spark plug in the grabage from the beginning, and put in an ngk B6HS. i also threw away the stock spark plug wire and boot, and made a new one from some left over 8 m.m. resistor spark plug wire that i had left over from when i made them for my car.
take the time to do it right as you build it and do the break in as recommended by the manufacturer. if you get a good engine, it will perform and run good all the time.
altho sometimes with these chinese 2 strokes, every once in awhile someone gets a lemon and they can't make it run well from the beginning.
 
words of wisdom

Take the time to try to do it right. Us old guys tend to take more time to figure things out. Experience is one reason, the other is, we don't heal up like we used to. I read posts for months before I did my first build and ut helped minimized problems. There is a lot of great information here. Once I got everythings dialed in I haven't had to do hardly anything for the past year. I always do a "preflight" to make sure everything appears to be tight and where it should be. Do a lot of reading and you'll do a lot less fixing. Good Luck, Dan

...There you go..read that again ..take your time and do it right.
 
Lights require the most maintenance for me. Yeah, I guess I' always messing with something.
 
if you do a pre-trip before each ride, check your bolts, and connections, chain etc. you should have no probs. i have yet to have a prob with 2 bikes ive made once i have it all installed correctly. i did finally run out of gas tho and had to pedal home LOL
 
I had no problems with my first 2 bikes, one a Staton friction drive on a Schwinn Jaguar, the other a Staton chain drive on a big box store mountain bike. My 3rd was nothing but headaches with a bike from Toys R Us with a GEBE belt drive. The GEBE drive performed flawlessly, but the bike was junk. I finally scraped the 3rd bike and I'm using all the good parts and the drive on #4, a 7 speed comfort bike. All my bikes have used Robin EHO35 engines and I use the best quality rear wheels, tires, brakes, oil, grease, and bearings I can afford. Bikes 1 and 2 never needed any repairs beyond the occasional flat tire. I agree with the commenter's above who say go slow and build it right the first time and you will save hours in repairs/rebuilds.
 
Have to agree with wheelbender6: Lights require the most maintenance for me.

The on/off-flasher sequence switches always seem to play up on those high intensity red LED flasher style units and the plain white LED headlights.
I'm sure it's from the vibration hammering away at the electronic circuitry.

Fabian
 
yup but on mine its usually with the pedal derailer not the engine side. Always going through mud and woods takes its toll on the frail mechanism. That and the wobbly wheel usually needs some adjustment lol
 
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