Rear mount studs broke, any good fix???

Overall, Dan, I agree with Ron. Under normal conditions, there shouldn't be a problem with breaking rear mount studs. It must be an alignment issue with those frames
Sorry to hear that you've had such dramas. My bike almost put itself together and nothing has ever come loose or broken. (509km on the clock so far.) I'm not really supposed to ride any more, but manage to sneak out every week or two.
I ordered an expansion chamber this morning and a battery for my charging system and super-headlight. (4 x 12V 18W filaments, though normally I'll use 18W for low beam and 36W for high beam, with the full 72W for 'spotlight'.) The cagers will see me coming!
 
engine mount bolts were torqued too much and the muffler was probably not strapped or not correctly
Correctly what? (mufler wise)? Who are you, to TRY to talk tech with people with more experience under their belt, than you are old! If you live in the USA, You will know that you are tooooo young to ride one of these things! OH, and by the way, please post a torque table for all points that need exact torque! So us old guys can get a refreshment course! Kids these day's :sick:
 
I used to ride MC also,+ Road (cafe) So I know a bit about engine propelled cycles/vehicles!!! My MOM raced off road. (Barstow to Vegas). My DAD raced Oval dirt track, When I was 3,4,5, & 6 years old. Sorry if I came off to hot! But I'm having a bad month, (ever since I got this thing running). I apologize! With all my resources (tools) 300 miles away, I'm frustrated!!!
 
its cool i remember something else i run cut peices of popped tube on the clamp
it allows the engine to move more but stay sturdy almost like a car hope that helps
 
Dan, I have a engine mounted in a vice that I'm experimenting with...designing ways to better install the rear bracket, fabricating a bracket to repair front broken mounts (not the studs). I have it mounted by the rear mount only. I have a problem with the stock clamps and the lack of room to use a socket/torque wrench to properly torque these studs (aftermarket grade 5). What I noticed was that with the proper torque on the rear. I can pull up or push down on the front of the engine and the rear studs will be in a bind and can see how they can eventually break. With a proper front mount there is no stress on the rear studs and seems virtually impossible to break the studs under normal riding conditions. My son even took his bike to our moto cross track here and ran it like he stole it, jumping hill after hill...afterward I inspected everything and nothing needed any adjustment.
 
Dan, have you seen the rear mount for the SBP shift kits? It's similar to what you're making, but longer vertically. It uses 2 allen key bolts and a spacer to mount to the engine, then 2 u-clamps to attach to the frame.
You could then vary the spacer thickness to get a nice snug fit in the 'v' of the frame and you'd be less likely to strip or break studs.
I think you can see it in the pics in the album on my profile page.
(Or buy a shift-kit and it's already done for you.)

Ron, I think you've hit it on the head. The front mount needs to be solid and also should be properly spaced so there's no gap that the bolts have to pull up. That'll put extra stress on the rear studs.
 
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