Chains 410 vs 415 drive chain, catasrophic failure brand new engine

If you have horizontal dropouts

You can cover for a poor chainline by using this diagram for illustration. It is widely exaggerated for explaining what I did.
motorbicyclechainwheelalignment1.jpg
:geek:


The alignment with the small driver cog is not nearly as critical as the chain alignment with the wheel cog. You can use a multispeed chain on the pedal side since you basically don't put near as much strain or wear on that as the motor chain. If you do not know how to re-dish a wheel, PM for help.

If the wheel is misaligned to the center-of-frame by a couple of degrees, it will not affect steering. Many BMX bikes with severe steering angles do not suffer from this kind of alignment, so a beach cruiser or 26" cruiser/mountain bike should not have a problem.

Uneven tire wear should not be a problem either, esp if you rotate the tire (flip it) at least once in its life cycle.

I had a grubee kit with stock chain. same issues you described minus breaking cover. it locked up do to allignment and broke chain+1 got 415 chain and didnt break after re allignment. a couple skid marks, But boxers clean. All in working order.
 
Serious chain stretch or **** Mfg. Tolerances?

The stock grubee chain bit it today. I've only ridden this bike for 400miles. Yet the chain could almost be lifted above a tooth on the 44t cog, and it jumped track today, jamming in the case cover. (luckily I could just file the damage away and still use the cover.)

I sized a cheap Bell walmart "1-3" speed chain (I have some which works good for the pedal side on plain bikes and looks nice with the brass color).

It seemed to be around 100 links (counting each pin). The difference between the two chains was significant (have to remove 1/2 link of chain from pedal side to even out now!) I could not see any visible damage or wear to the grubee chain (except the bent link). The roll pins/bushings of it didn't show any wear to naked eye. It was still stiff when trying to flex from side to side.

What do you guys think?

Is it seriously stretched or is it crappy manufacturing tolerances that account for the difference between the 400mi grubee chain and new bell chain?
 
Is it seriously stretched or is it crappy manufacturing tolerances that account for the difference between the 400mi grubee chain and new bell chain?

I think it's probably a combination of both. Let's be sure about one thing, the chain from Wally-world isn't the highest quality either. But, it doesn't have the tendancies to bind like I've heard on these forums and have seen with my own experience with the Grubee chain.

I prefer the narrow (Grubee-like) chain as it gives a little more room to the frame and tire. I changed over to the same Bell chain and I noticed an immediate difference. I recommend it for anyone that is running a Grubee chain. Buy two packs and you'll have enough chain and, you'll also get two master links! Not a bad deal. I've probably got about 250-300 miles on my Bell chain with no problems whatsoever.
 
didn't have a chain problem, but both of the gallon tanks I bought from Pistonbikes leaked due to poorly welded mounting studs and the company didn't give a **** about making it right and wouldn't pay return shipping for me to send them back

I'm through dealing with PB
 
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courtesy of Sheldon Brown (deceased RIP) section on chain maintenance here: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html

Chris Crew. That is important. Please put it in the Vendor Reviews section so others can make good decisions when weighing vendors to buy from.

Motorbike Wannabe, thanks for the anecdote about the Walmart Chain. It is a common bicycle chain with thin plates, and pressed in side plates for bushings, not a BMX type roller chain. This is why it does not bind, but it may be subject to faster wear esp if not lubed well, and it may eventually snap at the sideplates or slip a chain pin, esp with a large power motor like a 66 or 70cc.

2 packs of those chains are about $20, though. For that, you could get a good sturdy KMC chain etc. I got mine because it was convenient (not a lot of bike shops here.) and it could work on pedal side or chain side as a spare. (Just put it in a gladlock bag or some foil wrap.)
 
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I finally had to resort to using the scary chain tensioner on the chain stay. I put it on the pedal side though, and put it where it can't eat the wheel (the chain wouldn't let it go to the spokes, and the roller would hit the rim first anyway. I plan to weld it to the frame also after test riding for fit. Looks a lot safer than the high position motor side location used by a lot of bikes. I guess that is the only way to clear the chainstay on some frames though. Weld it or put a set screw through it!
 
I have a Tractor Supply # 41 chain and have had no (0) problems since install. The links are the same length as my bike chain and wider which I feel allows for some wiggle room on the alignment. I do not use a tensioner and ride my bike almost everyday and I haven't adjusted the chain yet.
 

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The Walmart Bell chain didn't last 20 miles. http://www.walmart.com/ip/Bell-Sports-Multi-Speed-Bike-Chain/10400600 I busted mine already and had to get a ride home. Don't buy this chain for anything but pedaling. Fair enough, the box warns "Not for motor vehicle use." I expected it would last at least a week with a 48cc engine, but it was busted in 20 miles. I'll cut out the bad link and save it for a kids 12" wheel junky bike (the free charity bikes I fix up).

The 41 Tractor chain is nice, but its too wide for a lot of people's bikes because some hub/cog combos don't have room for a chain that wide.
 
I went to a BMX shop today and took the Grubee junk chain with me. ( I sure like this motor kit, but the chain was bad)

They found me a KMC Z Chain (112 links, $10), that was like magic.
KMC_Z410-CHAIN-New.jpg


I bought 2 to have a spare.
I am about to go fire it up now, but this chain is very smooth in rotating the links and has a little flex for forgiveness. The side plates look strong and the machining tolerances are top notch. I thought my cog was out of round a little, but with this chain on it stays the same tightness all the way around.
Its the same width as the grubee BMX chain, but is a thick plate bushingless design and the rollers fit all the way across the pins, not loose on there.


PS After riding it about 10 miles, I busted a link, but I found it was due to axle slippage. I put a new nut on there and I'm parking the bike till I get a chain tensioner (axle puller) or auto tensioner.

If you aren't using the idler wheel, you have to be EXACT on chain line and tension, or it will skip the wheel cog and lock up in the drive cog cover.

I'm pedaling to work for a while till I get this sorted out. But I think the KMC Z chain is a good deal. I put a new link in it and it worked fine on the way home.
 
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dig the pics..

Well, here are some pics of my engine J-rig with the new cover, longer bolts, wide flange washers, and bailing wire support on outside bolt. I also have the #41 chain installed.

Due to further issues with the HD Wheel I have not been able to road test it yet. I am starting to think I am never gonna get to break this thing in.:sick: Anyway, there it is.

Edit:

I removed the HD wheel and put on my spare. I took my rig for a run around the block and the fix is looking good. I'll have to wait and see how it does over time. Love the #41 chain btw. Thanks for all the advice ppl.
 

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