Chains 410 vs 415 drive chain, catasrophic failure brand new engine

I agree, forget the 410 or 415 chain. Go with the #41 chain. It is REALLY forgiving to any slight misalignments of the rear sprocket and also chain slack.

For the heck of it I have about 2 inches of play in my chain and rode a 10 mile ride today and it never once jumped the sprocket.

No matter how hard I tried I could never get the bmx chain to stay on the sprocket. I was also really afraid of higher speeds of the chain locking up the rear wheel as it did a few times at lower speed.
 
How does it work differently? I am hearing the stories though and buying the chain tomorrow. Perhaps it is the flexibility of the chain or how the links can move freely.
 
How does it work differently? I am hearing the stories though and buying the chain tomorrow. Perhaps it is the flexibility of the chain or how the links can move freely.

The #41 chain is wider and fits the teeth better. Because it is wider the teeth have more room to move around to any misalignments. When you see the #41 chain you may think it is not going to work at first but trust me it will.
 
I just got a 415 KMC "extreme" chain in the mail with my order from Niagara Cycle.

I can't use it because it rubs on the spokes of the rear wheel. It looks really cool though. And it weighs a lot!

I will look at the hardware store and see if they have that industrial chain for garage doors etc that looks like a black, heavy duty bicycle chain, more like a regular bike chain than this 415 monster chain.

I may sell it with the half link and quick links i got for it in the classifieds. Not even fully installed. I put it around the cog and can't even use it. oh well.
 
Hey happycheapskate. Do you have the rear sprocket mounted so that it is
"dished" away from the spokes? I've never seen a chain so close to the wheel that it could hit the spokes. Even with the wide #41 on my original set-up it didn't come close to hitting mine. Just a thought.
Tim
 
Yes, the cog is mounted so the teeth are away from the spokes. The cog is mounted directly on the hub (Hi Stop coaster hub), with 1 rubber donut on the other side of the spokes, with the half-moon plates. This works very well, with the narrow chains and tires about 26x2.0 or skinnier.
 
Step one.

I ordered a sprocket cover for 8 bucks total from spooky, and I ordered a #41 chain from ACE Hardware(thx 4 the link a/c man) which came to about $18. Still have to see if Chase will let me contest that :censored: piston bikes charge.

I am thinking about getting some 1/4" longer cover bolts and some washers (as big as I can get 'em) to increase the surface area holding the cover on. Then I'll bolt the broken bolt hole to the new cover and run a piece of bailing wire between the back of my top right bolt and the clutch cable eye for extra stability. Spooky sells the bottom housings for 20-30 dollars, and I will probably eventually tear the engine down and replace the housing. For now though i just want to get her back on the road as cheaply as possible.

With the #41 chain and Spooky's HD wheel this thing should be a tank. Except of course for my J-rig.:cry: Ill let y'all know how it turns out.

Also I'll be updating my thread in the "Parts & Accesories" forum with an HD Wheel review once I get this fixed and I can finally put some miles on it. You know.. just in case anyone cares.:whistle:
 
Don't forget the metal&epoxy putty aka Bondo or Jb Weld.

PS If its Aluminum, and you are binding it together anyway, there might be some type of aircraft grade aluminum compatible cement (airplane glue, hobby glue) that will work better.
 
I had a grubee kit with stock chain. same issues you described minus breaking cover. it locked up do to allignment and broke chain+1 got 415 chain and didnt break after re allignment. a couple skid marks, But boxers clean. All in working order.
 
For those who don't know, the grubee chain has roll-pins in each link, (inner plates), while most common bicycle chains only have indentations where the pin holes are punched, that the little rollers turn on. This is why bicycle chains "stretch" as the indentations wear down, and why bicycle chains are marked "not for motor vehicle use."

I'm still using my grubee chain but looking for another chain. Tractor Supply didn't have anything I could use. All were too wide, or had the wrong pitch (the 35 looks to be the right width, but has a short link that doesn't fit on the bicycle cog).

If the chain does skip on the driver cog and lock up, you may be able to get it loose by loosening the wheel, and removing the cover. If its not damaged badly, you can work the chain out, undo the quick link, and re install the chain. Remove your spark plug, and you can use a needle nose plier or about anything to pull the chain over the driver cog easily.
 
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