Changing the roller on a Staton kit

I put the clutch drum in the jaws of my vice and closed the vice just enough so that the drum wouldn't move (the round drum in square jaws doesn't require much tension) and then unscrewed the roller with the pipe wrench (same geometric principle as the drum in the vise). Didn't have any problem and as I mentioned above, I had to do it twice because I first put the split rings on the wrong sides of the bearings. I was careful and it wasn't a problem the unit works great, I put another 16 miles on it yesterday for a total of 26 since I made the change.
 
Not being very comfortable with using a vise on my drum and unable to get a vise to the drum, I emailed David Staton. After a week without any reply, I headed off on my own. I use red LocTite on the roller treads and my drums are on pretty good. It may be overkill but I don't like to put something together that I can't disassemble, so I built a spanner wrench and bored two corresponding holes in the drum center. My old drum had slots cut in the same place so these holes shouldn't hurt anything.
 

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On rollers 1.25" or smaller, I leave the clutch drum attached and remove it as a unit. When reinstalling on a different setup, everything falls into place together.

For lack of skills and equipment, I've used a vise grip on the clutch drum to remove it. I also have a few extra drums on hand, since I change engines and friction rollers often to see how different sizes work on them. Personally I don't use locktite on the drums, since the engines' counterclockwise rotation keeps the drums tightly secured.

Not saying that my way works better, but in a pinch vise grips can remove the friction drum quite easily. The local machinist charges me $80 to remove drum and roller. Even if I destroy the $22 drum, I'm still ahead.:whistle:
 
Kerf use a strap wrench to old the clutch bell from turning......after looking at your pics thats not possible like my setup LOL.
 
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$85! Yeeouch! There's got to be an easier, cheaper way for me to yank
the worn roller outa my 'satan'. It didn't last very long, and at $20 a pop
+ $85, that's half of what I paid for the kit. Geez, glad you can afford
$85. Tell you what, I' not buyin the next roller from Dave. I've already
got another shaft, bearings, and grippier roller i custom tooled myself.
And I'm not talkin' about weld beads on a hunk a pipe either. I am so
glad I converted my other channel FD to a belt drive.:devilish::sick:
 
The above was a reply to page 1( SBT)

Thank you so much, motman!!! A simple solution to an aggravating
problem.i.e 1" socket:unsure:
 
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$85! Yeeouch! There's got to be an easier, cheaper way for me to yank
the worn roller outa my 'satan'. It didn't last very long, and at $20 a pop
+ $85, that's half of what I paid for the kit. Geez, glad you can afford
$85. Tell you what, I' not buyin the next roller from Dave. I've already
got another shaft, bearings, and grippier roller i custom tooled myself.
And I'm not talkin' about weld beads on a hunk a pipe either. I am so
glad I converted my other channel FD to a belt drive.:devilish::sick:

Well, it's been 2 years, so i've learned much between then and now.

I used Staton friction rollers in the BMP friction drive housings. Staton press-fits his generic bearings and spindles into his housings. BMP's bearings and spindle are slip fits into their housings.

Staton's clutch drum, bearings and rollers will fit inside a BMP housing, if you install them as a unit. You just have to install an outboard bearing retainer, to keep the bearing from falling outward. BMP's components will prolly fit into the Staton housing. I didn't try that, because I don't like Staton's press-fit methods.

Staton's friction roller is a press fit into their .625" ID bearings. The bearing's OD is the same as BMP's OD, so the Staton bearings SLIP into the BMP housing, not PRESSED in there.

You can convert a Staton roller to SLIP into its bearing by using sandpaper for a few seconds on its axle.

It is SO EASY to remove and reinstall STATON rollers in a BMP housing.
 
That's moot since BMP is Kaput; where would I find a BMP housing?
My problem "was " a Staton housing.
 
What I'm offering is general knowledge, not specifically for you.

Has anyone ever noticed how similar the DAX friction housing is to the old BMP unit?
 
All I know is that motman's solution was so simple and easy that I'm
embarrassed that I didn't think of it myself...., and golly, it didn't cost
an $85 trip to a machinist.:devilish:
 
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