I Broke TWO Staton Friction Rollers!

[5-7HEAVEN]

The BMP friction drive was $100 cheaper than another vendor. I also saved another $90 on shipping.

BMP had only 1", 1.25" and 1.5" rollers. Staton had .875", 1", 1.125", 1.25", 1.375" and 1.5" quality rollers. So I installed Staton friction spindles for more versatility.

All worked well with 1.25" and 1.375" Staton rollers and 5hp GP460 engine on the BMP kit. When I swapped to a 2.2hp Mitsubishi engine and a different bike with the BMP kit and Staton rollers, I broke two rollers in less than a month.

By the way, since the rear disc brake was in the way, I just installed the right-side rear mounting strut. The strut was a modified old-style Staton rear mounting strut.

Also experiencing clutch drum bottoming out on the engine block AND the clutch nose. I'm using three mounting bolts. If I tighten the fourth mounting bolt, the engine's crank locks up.

Maybe it's a manufacturing defect, maybe the engine block is the problem. I had the same interference/scraping problem when this engine was mounting on the Staton friction drive.

The interference problem would probably be solved if I lengthened the Staton clutch drum spacer maybe .125".

Any suggestions how to stop the roller from breaking at the clutch drum, AND solving the engine interference problem?

[loquin]

Where did the roller break?

[moondog]

I would take a small square and check that everything is square.

I would also weld some angle iron supports in the channel to help keep it square and prevent flexing.

The Staton kit is stiffer and everything is tight pressed fit. The motor stays inline with the clutch drum.

If the clutch drum is not lined up straight going into the motor this could put a lot of stress on the roller causing it to break at the clutch drum ?

[5-7HEAVEN]

The roller broke at the threaded end and clutch drum. I will install left-side rear support strut soon.

The engine motor mount holes themselves might be off. I will try different Mits engine and used 1.5" roller.

[loquin]

That does sound as if the engine (clutch) and roller bearings aren't exactly in alignment.

[eastwoodo4]

as far as the fourth bolt goes,make sure none of the bolts are going all the way thru and hitting the flywheel.you may have to shorten one or more of the bolts.

[loquin]

Possibly, the bmp u-channel is opening up or flexing slightly when clamped down, under pressure, with only one hold-down clamp point.

[5-7HEAVEN]

as far as the fourth bolt goes,make sure none of the bolts are going all the way thru and hitting the flywheel.you may have to shorten one or more of the bolts.

All mounting bolts thread into the block; no flywheel on the clutch side.

So I removed the Mits engine and installed a 4.5hp GP460 engine. Four mounting bolts threaded easily into the block. A Staton 1.375" roller will be used, as this seems to be the best overall one for this engine.

I will make sure I fab a left-side rear strut.

[cpuaid]

5-7HEAVEN, how is the GP460 working out for you so far? what is your sustained speed with that 1.375" roller? i'm thinking about using the GP460 for a future project. the price makes it a real bargain but i'm afraid it might be too much power for our little drive rollers since its a higher revving engine. won't the tires be eaten up more quickly?

[eastwoodo4]

All mounting bolts thread into the block; no flywheel on the clutch side.

then what do the clutch shoes attach to?