Tubes Inner tube rotating on rim?

I have used the electric tape and thick 2.5mm wall thickness on up type heavy duty tubes. I think the thick tubes must be doing the trick here for me dunno. This has not ever been a issue for me.
 
After some serious thought, (lol), I've decided to try a little something else to stop those tires from slipping on the rim. I deflated the tires, (leaving them on the rim), and roughed up the inner part of the rim where the bead makes contact with some medium sandpaper. Then I applied a generous amount of Pepsi Cola to the bead, and the inner rim. I'll let the Pepsi dry until it's nice and sticky. Then I'll inflate the tire to recommended capacity, and give 'er a go. If it works, I'll let y'all know!
 
After 50 miles, city riding, the tires haven't slipped a mm! It worked for me. The rough up and pepsi cola trick! I didn't even have to remove the tires. Just deflated them, and roughed up the inside of the rim that makes contact with the tire when inflated with sandpaper, and took a paper towel, folded it up a few times, and dipped it in pepsi cola, applied the cola to the rim and the tire, (where they contact each other when inflated), and It works like a champ!
 
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I say throw some actual poundage in your tires. The more PSI the less resistance you have when you're riding, giving you a faster top speed. This also keeps your valve stem from traveling. Of course, before you go pumping it up to that PSI make sure your valve stem is centered as good as you can.

On a standard 26" wheel I'll go 45-50 pounds. On touring bikes I'll push 85 pounds and hit 35-40 mph pedaling - it seriously makes a huge difference!
 
The swift acceleration in motored biking is the reason for pulled valve stems. When your valve stem is at an undesirable angle release air from the tire until you hear the tube separate from the tire. This can be done without removing the wheel. Grab the rim with one hand and the tire with the other and jerk the tire (and tube) in the opposite direction of the tube valve direction. I usually over compensate (angle the valve 180° opposite of an undesirable angle). Then inflate the tube five to ten pounds over what you might normally inflate it to which will provide less friction and better gas mileage. I've had a stem rip out from the base of the tube because I wasn't paying attention. (your tire goes down in a jif) For my riding conditions I fill the front to 35psi and the rear to 40psi. The lower the psi the higher the traction but the more often you need to readjust the valve stem. My front wheel usually needs the most readjustments.
 
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up here we have something called "hockey tape" its like medical tape,black and almost tacky on the backside.comes in larger rolls than the medical tape.for a real persistent rim slip issue (thats what its called in automotive circles) i would consider a few pieces of carpet tape.may be a challenge to install tire and tube,the benifits may justify the fight to assemble it.
 
The swift acceleration in motored biking is the reason for pulled valve stems.

Actually it has nothing to do with the "swift" acceleration from a motored bike. I'm not exactly sure how much power you think one of these little engines make but it's no where near the power your legs make. If you're having trouble with the tire and tube shifting, it's caused by the combination of bump-starting on a tire that's under-inflated.


This is a very old thread, by the way.
 
If It was due to acceleration I believe The valve stem will be pointed tward the rear of the bike if the valve stem/wheel was at bottom dead center. it would have to a bit under-inflated for one of these 'lil motors to do that!
 
I had this problem with a set of Bontrager Hank tires on my Weinmann DH-39 rims. It didn't matter how much pressure I had (usually ran 65-80psi), the valve stem would creep over time. In one year, I had 6 or 7 cut valve stems between F&R. I tried 26x3.0 tubes and it made the problem worse.

There was a couple factors at play contributing to my problem. One, my bike, despite it's diminutive Huasheng 49CC engine, was using a 4G through a shift kit. 1st gear is 25.5:1, so it accelerates pretty quickly off the line! 0-20MPH in about 3-4 seconds. Two, the beads of the Hanks just didn't play nice with the Weinmann hoops. The hoops were clinchers, so were the tires, but the beads were too small for the downhill-style wheels. Three, Hanks are beautiful tires, and I often used tire-shine stuff on em. That stuff seeped down into the bead and made it slippery.

I use Kenda Kiniptions now, they have fat beads. No sidewalls to shine up either, the whole tire is tread bead-to-bead. The valve stems stay put now!
 
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