Tubes Inner tube rotating on rim?

Someone asked about this on a mountain bike mechanic's forum I'm a member of. Here was one mechanic's reply:

This can happen if the tube is too large for the tire, if the tire is under inflated or if it is a real cheap tube. Make sure that the hole in the rim is the proper size if it's a presta valve, and not too large. If the hole in the rim is too big, it might be designed for the schrader type valve. Also, tighten the valve securely, as you are probably doing... Please make sure the tube size and tire size are compatible & that you have a high quality tube.

hth
 
Update

Preliminary results after about 25 miles or riding seem to show that the problem is solved, or at least significantly reduced.

Contrary to troubleshooting best practices, I decided to make two changes at the same time. I removed the electrical tape around both rims and also bumped the pressure up to 50 psi. I figure that the existing single layer of good standard rim tape will be sufficient for puncture resistance, though time will tell on this one. Bumping up the pressure has had the effect of improving my speed without affecting comfort too adversely.

I'll give it a few more rides before I make a final conclusion, but so far so good.

Thanks for all the help on this.
 
Glad you reported back on this....

So I'm going to look for an elec. tape substitute, maybe I can find industrial sized medical/hospital tape, which would have a texture to it.

Anything that makes them better is a good thing.
 
Spoke too soon

Looks like I'm still experiencing the problem, but I think I have a clue about what is going on. This weekend I didn't drive far, 10 miles or so, but the problem resurfaced even with no electrical tape and the higher pressure. One thing that is different is that the driving involved several steep downhill sections with very heavy braking. The slip of the inner tube is always in the same direction and could be explained if the tire and tube were slipping on the rim under braking. I rarely use my rear brakes so that could also explain why the problem is primarily on the front.

I might try and mark the rim and tire in order to prove that it is the tire slipping on the rim.
 
I've noticed that after 10 or 20 miles the valve stem will start to point at a angle, indicating that the inner tube valve stem is no longer centered on the valve stem hole in the rim. It would appear that the inner tube is rotating in the same plane as the wheel rotation. I've taken the tire off several times and realigned the inner tube, but after a few rides the stem is at an angle again. Although the problem is most pronounced on my front wheel I can see a similar effect on the rear as well. If I just leave it the angle gets more and more pronounced and I'm afraid there is undue stress on the stem and tube.

Both front and rear are Serfas Drifter Survivor 26x2" tires, with Mr. Tuffy liners and thorn resistant tubes, inflated to 40 psi.

Anyone have any idea what could be causing this and any possible solutions?

Thanks.

I have the same problem with my 26"x2" tyres, its getting annoying as my bike is ued to it limits and i dont want a un expected puncture at the speeds i do.
 
Big P
haven't known or seen anyone with the tire and tube slipping like yours !!
it's a different world that we live in today
maybe something about how those THINGS are made ??

do you want to stop slippage once and for all ??

after your tires are ((re-mounted))
or everything nice and straight
put a little quality 3-M caulking on just a few places securing wheel to rim
it will be no problem when you wish to remove

a couple of pieces of covered popsicle stick attached to inside of rim also
keeps tube from sliding
if you want more information how this works PM me

MM
 
With a Staton friction drive, my old Wally-World cruiser had the plastic rim 'tape' (it was really an elastic band) and I would see this shifting of tire/tube regularly. And, I had the devil of a time keeping air int he tires.

On the new bike, I put cloth rim tape on the rim, instead of plastic. I figure that it has enough texture to help keep the tube from shifting... And, it seems to be helping. I haven't noticed any tire/tube shifting, and the tires are holding air much better. I can go 2-3 weeks without needing to add air now.
 
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I just got back from a 20 mile test on a new bike...used calipers to check my new rim-taping idea, and can report ZERO movement of the stem.

I'm not giving up the 5 layers of electric over the rubber gasket, I've taken off enough tires to see that part works.

But I went to the Dollar Store and bought white medical tape (the kind to hold gauze) and put ONE layer over the electric (starting and stopping at the hole so I wouldn't have to poke a hole through it).

That textured medical tape may do the trick, as opposed to buying that expensive rim tape from the bike shop.
 
I've got a spare roll of the thick (and expensive) Velox fabric rim tape, I'll try that on my front wheel and report back with my findings. Right now I'm having to deflate the tire and realign it every few days. It takes just a few minutes, but it's annoying enough to spur me on to find a solution.
 
I'm having the same problem. I first started having the problem when I got a pair of Continental Town and Country 1.9" tires. I also use the Velocity rims from GEBE. When I was using a Sun rim on the back wheel, I had no problems, but when I went to the Velocity, slippage started occurring on the back as well. I haven't been able to find any rim locks that are small enough for a bicycle rim, so I'll try a little sand paper to "rough" up the contact points along the rim, (between the tire bead and the rim), and maintain max tire pressure. It's a pain...that much I do know! Sure wish I could find some bicycle rim locks.
 
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