How many mods have you done to your Whizzer?

Quenton,
You just answered a question I had about valve springs.
I was looking at getting some aftermarket springs, but, I guess I will just shim the ones I have.

What are the I.D. and O.D of the washers that are needed for shims?

k-wad said:

PAGH-

The speedo is probably within 1 or 2 mph +/-. Not super accurate, but, good enough for what it's for.

Unfortunately, I don't have any other pictures at this time, but, you can barely see the seatpost clamp in the first pic. It's located above the top motor mount.
To get it to work, I drilled four holes in the frame (like at the corners of a rectangle .5" wide by 1.5" tall) then made cuts between the holes in a capital "I" shape. (Hopefully that makes some kind of sense).

I know Pomona quite well. I grew up on the Glendora/San Dimas border. We were close enough to the fairgrounds that you could hear them running the top-fuel dragsters when the Winternationals were going on.

Click to expand...

Thanks for your response,

I'm trying to visualize the cuts you made in your frame, but I'm just having a hard time doing so.. I don't think I could even get my seat as low as yours even if I wanted to anymore since I installed my breather under there.

Pomona was fun for me many years ago, but times changed,I had to get out of there. Some of my funnest memories were at the Fairplex. Miss eating at Legends as well... But don't want to get too off topic here,lol.

Quenton Guenther said:

Hi Guys,

The speedometers are very close if used on a 26" wheel. If used on the 24" Whizzers is will be off approx. 10% [IE 50 MPH indicated is 45 MPH]

A few comments about valve springs and 26 MM carburetors.

There are some HD valve springs on the market that are WAY TO stiff, and will damage the valve stems where the "C" clip is attached. The stock valve springs with a 1/8" shim [washer] between the spring and the guide will be exactly what you want. Best choice is progressive springs with the shims. Turn tight end towards the valve guide.

If the 26 MM carburetor is not one of the original units used on the very first NE5s, it will never set up correctly, as the cut in the slide is wrong, the needle taper & length are wrong, the pilot jet is the wrong size, as is the main jet. The 26 MM carburetor used on the NE motors had very different internal parts than the current generic versions.

A few hints on how to make the 26 MM work slightly.
Change pilot jet to #32
Cut small slot [1/8"] in front of slide to allow it to idle [somewhat]
reduce main jet to #98
Lower needle to second from bottom [clip in 2 groove from top]
If stumbles at 1/4 throttle, replace needle with more taper

Can get parts from SUDCO in CA
Look for parts for a PZ26

Have fun,

Click to expand...

Thanks for your reply,

I took my bike out for a test ride with the new 26mm carb and 50 MPH speedo. I definitely feel more top end power, (at the cost of some bottom end power) however the bike bogs down very easily if I give it more than 1/2 throttle, and getting it to idle at first was a task! I'm thinking I need a smaller main jet as you mentioned?

The 50 MPH speedo did seem more accurate as I got my 220LB. butt over 40MPH on flat ground before I ran out of road so it made the speedo worth it already!

I also still have oil coming out of the crankcase! As a matter of fact it's even worse now with the higher RPMs the engine turns...

Don't know what else I could do to help remedy this annoying problem I've been having?

Here are some pics.. I pointed out where I have oil seeping from, you can see it seeping from below the plastic elbow. Another great design of the neo Whizzer..

Hi,

First you must completely close the oil vent tube coming from the side of the motor, as it is a lesson on how not to vent the crankcase. I learned in the 1st grade about reducing the size of a hose and increasing the pressure [Squeeze a water hose and watch how far it squirts the water]. The passages in the rear of the motor are way too SMALL, and must be shut down.
The NE cylinder you have has a hole that lines up with the slot in the crankcase, and vents into the tappet cavity to allow the pressure to exit. Once the oil/air mixture is in the cavity it must be separated, and the oil returned to the crankcase. You will need to make a working vent system to reduce the crankcase pressure, and can be made form EZ to find parts. The hoses needed to connect the vent system and retain the mesh and PCV valve can be purchased at most auto parts stores. Need 2 sizes of heater hose [must be able to handle hot oil], some metal mesh [a pot scrubber without soap], PCV valve for small Ford V8, and an elbo [can use pluming fixtures], and a few plastic ties. You will spend around $25.00 plus some time to make the vent system. I made several hundred of these and sold at cost, for those that didn't want to go to the trouble of making their own, however I don't have any left, so........ make your own.

As stated in an earlier post the 26 MM carburetor must be setup completely different to work on the Whizzer motor correctly. Of the 20 or 30 I have had to work on, none evry worked as well as the original supplied by Whizzer USA. You will only be able to "dial it" in close, never equal to the original.

Normally the throttle response is fair up to 3/4 throttle where the main jet takes over, however it sounds like it doesn't want to accept fuel at lower setting, therefore you will need to work on the size of the Pilot jet first. Sadly, I don't know if you need a larger pilot or smaller, as the symptom is the same for both scenarios. If it has a #32, try a #35, if it has a #35, try a #32. Also adjust the needle settings to see if it helps the throttle response. If the needle is too high the motor should "8-stroke", and if too low it will run too lean and could cause motor damage. Best to try settings from middle to one each way. Keep raising needle until it "8-strokes", and then drop one.

Hope this helps.


Have fun,

Quenton,

I saw your post regarding the 26mm carb, and was not expecting to just bolt it up and have it run perfectly out of the box without some tuning. I was not surprised by the results. As I suspected it has to do with the jetting sizes. I will try to locate a different pilot jet to see if that helps with the problem. If you, or anyone may have a part number, that would help.

As far as the crankcase pressure, yes, what you said is common sense.

As mentioned, I do have a breather system for the bike already, it seems as if the oil is escaping from below the plastic elbow making my breather useless at this point.

As you mentioned, I'm going to have to block off the existing hole and find the hole that lines up with the slot in the crankcase and connect my breather to that.
Thanks.

I had a 26mm carb I bought on Ebay. tried for 2 years to get it right. Put in every jet size that could possibly work. Low & hi speed jets
. I got tired of buying jets ( each size I had to buy packs of 4) so I used the formula chart & soldered them shut & re drilled them. Nothing worked. I bought a Whizzer 26mm carb off Quenton a couple years ago & it runs great.

Just a few ideas you might want to try.

Run the vent hose from the compression release straight back to the seat post. Then install 90 degree elbo to your oil separator. It is important that the PCV valve be parallel to the seat post to allow the valve to work correctly.

Running a longer hose from the cover only adds to the problem of the oil purging from the crankcase if a clapper valve [PCV] isn't in the system sooner. I am attaching a picture to help explain how it needs to be installed.

Have fun,

jbcruisin said:

I had a 26mm carb I bought on Ebay. tried for 2 years to get it right. Put in every jet size that could possibly work. Low & hi speed jets
. I got tired of buying jets ( each size I had to buy packs of 4) so I used the formula chart & soldered them shut & re drilled them. Nothing worked. I bought a Whizzer 26mm carb off Quenton a couple years ago & it runs great.

Click to expand...

From what I've read, the 26mm carbs that were made specifically for Whizzers are discontinued, right?

Quenton Guenther said:

Just a few ideas you might want to try.

Run the vent hose from the compression release straight back to the seat post. Then install 90 degree elbo to your oil separator. It is important that the PCV valve be parallel to the seat post to allow the valve to work correctly.

Running a longer hose from the cover only adds to the problem of the oil purging from the crankcase if a clapper valve [PCV] isn't in the system sooner. I am attaching a picture to help explain how it needs to be installed.

Have fun,

Click to expand...

Thanks, the compression release plate on my bike doesn't have the boss for the hose. I need to find one of those.

They haven't made them for years. Maybe you can find one.