Pre-build checklist: Things all new owners should do with these 2 stroke kits...

rumme

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I thought this thread might make a good " sticky thread" to be permanently posted at the top of this specific forum if the moderators agreed. It would be a thread totally devoted to things that need to be done/ checked before running a new engine :


1. Clean out gas tank because it may have metal filings in it and install a inline fuel filter.

2. Dont use the stock method for shutting engine off. Purchase a switch and hook it inline on the blue wire/ hot wire from cdi to engine and use that to turn engine off/on

3. get a torque wrench and double check the head bolts. Mine shoulda been at 17 lbs and they werre only at 12 lbs torque

4. make sure all bolts on carbereutor are tight. One of my bolts that holds the bottom bowl on was very loose

5. make sure intake gasket properly fits carb exhaust port and engine intake...if not, cut it for a better fit.

6. ditch the chinese spark plug and get a ngk-B6HS

7. gap it at .020 so theres a bit stronger spark

8. put small lockwashers on the 2 bolts that hold the carbereutor intake flange to the engine intake

9. recheck all nuts/ bolts after 1st tank of gas.

10. make sure to provide a support/fastener to the muffler to the frame instead of relying on the 2 small exhaust bolts to hold the muffler suspended in the air.


Does this sound cool ...or does anyopne else have things to add ? I figured it would be very convenient to have these important procedures listed all in one thread so all newbies could easily find it/ read it.
 
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Thanks for that link Dave.
Still saving and researching for My first bike bookmarked that link as I know its gonna come in handy.
 
I got rid of the crappy electrical connectors and soldered the wires. Covered all wire conections with heat shrink. Changed the spark plug boot/connection. Ran my wires from coil to CDI through frame tube. Sealed anywhere a wire went through to anything. Next, will take off the coil cover and drill a small weep hole at the lowest point of case, as condensation could build up with sealed unit.
 
Things I do BEFORE mounting and running engine.......REMOVE FENDERS AND TRASH


1. Remove, discard and replace cylinder head studs with either studs or bolts Grade 8.8. (If using bolts they need to be the correct length, i.e. cut down). Either remove 1 head gasket or both if thin aftermarket is used (I use Copper Coat on head gasket). Install washer, lock washer and locking nuts and lock tite if studs are used (no lock tite for bolts). Torque to 17# (204 inch #'s)
2. I make sure the head and jug has GOOD mounting surfaces. Take a sheet or 320 grit sandpaper. Lay it on a piece of glass, and mill the surface. I have used sandpaper for an orbital sander (one side sticky) and stuck it to my garage window.
3. Remove, discard and replace the (4) 6mm studs holding the carburetor and exhaust with Grade 8.8. Lock tite and locking nuts. Torque to 10# (120 inch #'s)
4. Remove and replace cheap spark plug wire and plug clip with a good quality wire and clip... The wire is treaded onto a screw on the CDI. To remove turn counter clockwise. Check plug gap.
5. Adjust the clutch cable guide (mounted on the crankcase below the carburetor), so as not to bind the cable and wear excessively.
6. Add 3cc oil to crankcase.
7. Remove clutch pivot arm and shaft (clutch pivot cover has to be removed (4) screws. Remove arm from shaft and reinstall on shaft 2 notches counter clockwise.
8. Put a file finish on the gears.
9. Grease clutch pivot shaft and install in cover. Install cover.
10. Remove, discard and replace engine mounting studs and nuts with Grade 8.8, Lock tite and locking nuts.
11. Replace the (2) bottom bolts to the chain tensioner with grade 8.8. The roller has a grade 8.8 from factory.
12. I remove the coil, remove all three wires, and solder (2) wires back on (black and blue) using #14 and about 3 foot so I can attach to the CDI where I want and without the cheap terminal clips. My connections are close to the CDI. Slide on heat shrink and solder, slide heat shrink over the connection and shrink to the connection. Seal where wires exit case.
13. Before installing the fuel tank, flush it out. Trash is in the tank from attaching the stud mounts.
14. I don't use the fuel filter that comes with the kit (I use it on my lawnmower) I get a slim line from Advance Auto.
15. I glue a length of rubber (from a truck tarp rubber strap) under the fuel tank. Tank is now mounted securely without undue tightening.
16. Use a muffler support to relieve the strain on the (2) 6mm exhaust studs.
17. Mentioned earlier that I started doing is install an "O" ring in the carburetor throat.
18. I'll have to add the Zip ties to the spokes.... As mentioned.
19. I'll have to add a change in plug, although the stock plug did just fine on engine #1, and gap.
20. Like said, recheck all fasteners, and do this periodically.
 
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I just bought a mini greese gun and before I fill the hole under the clutch cable alinement end holder I need to know that this won't make the clutch slip? I haven't seen anyone else on here mention doing this? How high do you fill the hole, till it comes out of the hole or do you leave room for the end holder bolt? (a pic of this clutch cable end cable holder would help me know I'm on the same page}
 
I just bought a mini greese gun and before I fill the hole under the clutch cable alinement end holder I need to know that this won't make the clutch slip? I haven't seen anyone else on here mention doing this? How high do you fill the hole, till it comes out of the hole or do you leave room for the end holder bolt? (a pic of this clutch cable end cable holder would help me know I'm on the same page}

Hello crackers, I read when I first arrived on this site that this was a good idea, so I packed that area nice and full of grease, by hand. Next ride, grease oozed through the RHS countershaft bearing and covered the clutch with grease. Had to dismantle the clutch, wash everything with brake cleaner, re-grease the ball-race in the clutch, (not too much grease here either - just enough to wet the balls) and reassemble.
Logically, some grease through the clutch cable adjuster hole might be of benefit, but be wary.
I had to follow with 2 more clutch cleanups before all the grease stopped oozing out.

... Steve
 
Thanks Steve thats exactly why I ask. It just seamed like an awful large cavity to fill with grease and it being so close to the clutch pads. I'm just trying to do some preventive maintance here not create work for myself.
 
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I tried moving arm, clutch worked noticeably smoother, but wouldn't fully release,
lever bottomed out first. Went back to stock position, harder to work, but fully releases,
moving the arm And a longer throw lever would be the hot setup.

Even when fully released, the clutch has a huge amount of parasitic drag, the concept
of pedaling anywhere, sounds far fetched.
 
Thanks to everyone who contributed ideas for things to do/know before installing that motor. I'm sure that it all will help immensely at making my first build as successful as possible!
 
I sortta thought this has been done before, anyway I'll add a couple of things.

1. The clutch operating arm, out of the box it is at the wrong angle for smooth and light operation, it tends to "pull" the inner cable.
Ive added a couple of pics, its on splines, if you moved it towards the carby a couple of splines you get a straighter run for the inner cable and makes for 2 finger opperation and longer cable life.

Phil

Having done this mod tonight - a few things to add.

When retightening the castle-nut holding the clutch operating arm in position when on the splines, be sure to hold it/restrain it from going hard up against it's limit of travel. If you torque the nut down against it's limit of travel, you might crack the internal casting. I did, and i didn't torque it down all that particularly tight. Fortunately, i have a parts motor to scavenge the spare assembly from, and started over.

While you are at it and have everything disconnected and semi-apart - Lithium-greasing the internal wire of the clutch cable is a must! The method that i used was to take the inner wire core entirely out of the sheath, and fed it entirely into my lithium grease tube, in effect bathing the inner wire core. I then fed it back into the outer cable casing, bolted everything back together, and now i'm two-fingering the clutch, instead of two-handing it. No longer is it stiffer than my old Yammy XT500 with high-comp clutch springs in it.

Tomorrow i rubber mount the motor to reduce it's paint-shaker tendencies. :)
 
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