Pre-build checklist: Things all new owners should do with these 2 stroke kits...

rumme

Member
Local time
9:22 AM
Joined
Jun 11, 2008
Messages
45
I thought this thread might make a good " sticky thread" to be permanently posted at the top of this specific forum if the moderators agreed. It would be a thread totally devoted to things that need to be done/ checked before running a new engine :


1. Clean out gas tank because it may have metal filings in it and install a inline fuel filter.

2. Dont use the stock method for shutting engine off. Purchase a switch and hook it inline on the blue wire/ hot wire from cdi to engine and use that to turn engine off/on

3. get a torque wrench and double check the head bolts. Mine shoulda been at 17 lbs and they werre only at 12 lbs torque

4. make sure all bolts on carbereutor are tight. One of my bolts that holds the bottom bowl on was very loose

5. make sure intake gasket properly fits carb exhaust port and engine intake...if not, cut it for a better fit.

6. ditch the chinese spark plug and get a ngk-B6HS

7. gap it at .020 so theres a bit stronger spark

8. put small lockwashers on the 2 bolts that hold the carbereutor intake flange to the engine intake

9. recheck all nuts/ bolts after 1st tank of gas.

10. make sure to provide a support/fastener to the muffler to the frame instead of relying on the 2 small exhaust bolts to hold the muffler suspended in the air.


Does this sound cool ...or does anyopne else have things to add ? I figured it would be very convenient to have these important procedures listed all in one thread so all newbies could easily find it/ read it.
 
Last edited:
zip tie rear wheel spokes? whats that mean?

Where your spokes cross over each other you tie them together with wire, or like stated I used small zip ties. If you break a spoke (which will be less likely cause they are supported now by each other) at least they will stay together and maybe not stick into something else causing an accident,,,
 
Where your spokes cross over each other you tie them together with wire, or like stated I used small zip ties. If you break a spoke (which will be less likely cause they are supported now by each other) at least they will stay together and maybe not stick into something else causing an accident,,,

ty.....I got a roll of tie wire.....and zip ties. Great idea.
 
Hey, can anyone upload a picture showing the exhaust support that was mentioned in this thread? I'd like to see that.
 
Because I have had a chain come off and tear up my spokes I made a chaingaurd out of a frisbee and used the zipties on the spokes to hold it on as well
 
Easy... Here are rules every MBer can use:

(1) Get a kevlar tire, a tire liner, a puncture resistant inner tube, a rim/spoke liner, and never worry about a flat again. Also, don't forget to check pressure every two weeks or so.
(2) Replace all nuts & bolts with Grade 8 stuff that won't bend like the Chinese stuff. And definitely don't forget the LocTite! And don't tighten bolts too tight, as it could strip the engine.
(3) Hog the road if you're using the road. This way, people will be forced to give you your space. Some don't give you space at all.
(4) Get a great headlight!
(5) Wear gloves.
 
What do I put in the hole towards the rear of the engine that has the clutch cable holder screwed into it?
 
What do I put in the hole towards the rear of the engine that has the clutch cable holder screwed into it?


Grease of course.

There are three places to grease a happy time clutch.
1 where the drive chain goes. A ball and pin (Chinese through out bearing.)

2 Where the clutch spring actually lives.
remove the bolt, and clutch cable end holder from under the carb. Use a grease gun to fill this spot up. It also greases the bearing that will fail on you.


3 the pea sized blob for the gears in the clutch housing.
 
Back
Top