Chains 410 vs 415 drive chain, catasrophic failure brand new engine

side by side..

the "410" bike chain I was sent (on the left in the picture) doesn't really seem much bigger than a standard bike chain (on the right.) Also, here are shots that show damage to the outside of where the chain normally runs on the sprocket. I was running without a tensioner, but my chain was good and tight with room to tighten by moving back in the forks as the chain stretched.
 

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Are you sure that your wheel doesn't move slightly forward or that there isn't too much tightening/loosening as the wheel turns?

#410 is only a little wider than a normal bike chain, nowhere as wide as #415.
Does the #410 fit snugly on the countershaft sprocket, without binding on the sides of the teeth?

That chain looks to be very poorly made - on the LHS of the pic, there's a gap between the end of the rollers and the side-plates with some links, like it wasn't pressed together well during manufacture.
That might allow it to move side-to-side more than it should and jump the sprocket.
 
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that's the chain I got with the kit, and I would agree that it is poorly made. My chain tension was good, and the chain seemed to fit well, but even just walking the bike I would sometimes hear the chain 'pop'. I thought I had fixed that after the first time my chain got caught & mangled.

How does the chain in the picture compare to chains that y'all have gotten with your grubee kits?
 
After braking a 410 chain twice not at the master link. I went
to tractor supply and bought number 41 chain. that was the end of that
problem.That chain out lasted the motor.
 
You know I had the issue with two chains breaking and the chain popping off. I read some people who suggested #41 chain. I went out and bought some tonight and I must say yes it is way overkill duty wise. But the chain itself fits very nicely over the sprocket and it is wide enough that it looks like it will be somewhat forgiving as far as jumping off the teeth with the width.
 
I had an issue much like yours. My chain would pop and pop off, even when just pushing the bike around. I found two things. I have a coaster brake and the chain was hitting the bolt that held the end of the coaster arm. I moved the arm more and it stopped popping off. As for the noise that it was making, I noticed several tight joints in the chain. As it would wrap around the big sprocket, you could see the links that were tight and wouldn't allow it to seat totally on the sprocket. I lubed the chain and it all went away. But, I also went to Wal-Mart and bought a new chain from Bell. It took two packs of the chain but, it's been running fine now and I've got over 750 miles on the bike. I would say to check your chain for those issues and, of course, make sure that your sprocket is straight and, isn't too far out of round as the wheel spins. that'll make it impossible to keep tight.
 
I have not had the chain problem--but I have had the Pistonbikes problem. Sold me two leaky tanks and didn't care enough to even try to do something about it.
 
Exactly! re: post #11 http://www.motoredbikes.com/showpost.php?p=262496&postcount=11
first photo on left of chain with big gappy links. This is the one I got!

The rear cog is too wide for a standard narrow BMX chain (the bell walmart gold chain) but should be fine with a wide bmx chain like for half pipe/grinding bikes.

Check out www.niagaracycle.com for low prices on chains and 26"xdecimal tires like the Swiss Army Knife or the Cheng Shins.

Purchase an appropriate heavy duty chain and heavy wear tires and save a headache.

Oh wow this is a good topic. I bought a 48cc Grubee Skyhawk 2009. The first few rides, I had problems with the chain jumping the rear cog. This went away quickly after soaking the chain in motor oil, then greasing it a little.

The chain looks like a BMX chain, but a little wider, where the rollers can wiggle on the links a little. But it must not be a "415 chain" because I ordered a half link for that and it was HUGE compared to the chain I'm running.

I resolve to just throw away the factory chain on any kit and buy a good quality garage door chain or wide BMX chain to start with.
 
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I too had chain problems and went to Tractor Supply and got the #41 chain. Then I took it one step further. I got rid of the tensioner. I made two adjusters and brackets and I have not had to adjust my chain in almost 1 year. I have attached some pics to show what I mean.
 

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