L
Large Filipino
Guest
This is the greatest day of my life.
YAY! It works!!! No more leaky!
Pic 1 ~ Tank installed,filled it to the start of the threads. Since it's sunk in I may have lost about a few drops of capacity. I mean technically I can fill it to the brim but why?
Pic 2 ~ URURURURUR!!!
Because I'm doing an experiment,Moop. I'm trying to see if your new tank will leak or not.
URURURURUR!!!
Please. Give me 30 minutes then I'll pick you up. Can you give me 30 minutes? Look! I painted your tank and you have a new cover! Do you like it?
URURURUR!!!!!
But chrome is so expensive!
Pic 3 ~ 30 minutes later,Moop is really really ****ed. My Yorkie won't go even near him. But no leak!
Pic 4 ~ But ah. There IS a leak. From the carburator float bowl! No biggie. Shut off the gas valve and you lose what? A few drops?
Pic 5 ~ My fuel line got like all hard. It's amazing how this stuff shrinks after a while. I wanted to replace this and got a new filter so I reached for 1/4 automotive fuel line. This stuff is not the same as the original line. It will leak unless you use actual clamps. The zip ties to the fuel filter seems okay to use,though. The clamp to the carburator was really tight. I needed a screwdriver to push the clamp down to seat right.
You probably noticed I used a different screw for my top hole. That's because I messed up my holeing and I needed a larger diameter screw. I had that laying around.
So now we see that this works,some notes for those that want to copy this bad boy.
1) Remember that this tank is not venting. Especially when it's hot outside just turn the cap about a 1/4 to a 1/2 a turn. That's plenty of venting.Not doing this will pressurize yout tank like when you open your gas cap in your car sometimes and you get that "SWOOSH". I think it's okay to keep it sealed when it's cold outside,but I would turn it anyway when your riding so air can get in as your using up gas. And even with the cap turned a little it's still a way better seal.And you can seal it when it's parked.And you won't lose your cap. It's such an epic win.
2) Wild guess I would say the hole saw you will need is 1 1/2 so bring your empty and cleaned tank with you when you're measuring it out. Trust me. This is the way you want to go.Make sure that the hole saw JUST FITS around the filler tube (with the cap off!). The less metal you take out the better.
3) I got my gas cap and fill tube at the local sporting goods store. Go to the boat section and look for gas deck fill. The one I got is a Chrome Plated Zinc Deck Fill part # 351750-1 made by SeaDog.Soon I'll order that locking cap. It's gonna rule.
4) Drill some holes just below where the threads start so you won't get a huge air pocket in your tank thereby reducing your tank capacity by a whole lot.And you'll reduce the chance of gas splashing up on your eyes cause an air pocket in your tank is trying to get out taking some gas outside with it. It's all theory but I figure drill the holes,save the hassle.
5) When you drilled out your hole,you'll find you need to seat that deck fill to your tank a bit better. Try sliding the deck fill to the tank and applying your hand pressure till the sheetmetal gives and seats the fill deck assembly.Watch that you don't mess up the threads that mount the tank. I used a 2x4 under the tank to clear the threads.Remember if you use this and you slip you can bend those mounting bolts so be careful.A better way would probably be take two 2x4's layed down and drill four holes for your mounting bolts.
With the fill deck seated,line up the screw holes. Take a small drill bit and drill one hole to the top hole using the deck fill as a template,screw it down tight,adjust,then do the same with the other two holes. This ensures it's on straight. Tighten down the screws and check that it's all uniform.
6) Now take it off and sand down the mating surfaces. Rough up the bottom of the deck fill too to ensure a good seal. Then buy that JB weld Waterweld from your local auto parts store. Mead a good sized bead around the bottom of your deck fill. Don't use that rubber gasket (my one and only use for this was when I painted my tank,I mounted this gasket with the screws,therefore the paint didn't hit the mating surface). Put the three screws in the holes and punch the screws thru the thick bead. Now when you put it back the screws should line right up. Tighten it all down a half turn one screw at a time till the clay eases out ensuring you got a good seal. Take off the excess and toss it cause it's already been meaded and will cure rock hard.
7) TAKE YOUR TIME. It should already be ready in less than a hour but give it a day before you add some gas.
MMMMmmmmm...What else should I do?
YAY! It works!!! No more leaky!
Pic 1 ~ Tank installed,filled it to the start of the threads. Since it's sunk in I may have lost about a few drops of capacity. I mean technically I can fill it to the brim but why?
Pic 2 ~ URURURURUR!!!
Because I'm doing an experiment,Moop. I'm trying to see if your new tank will leak or not.
URURURURUR!!!
Please. Give me 30 minutes then I'll pick you up. Can you give me 30 minutes? Look! I painted your tank and you have a new cover! Do you like it?
URURURUR!!!!!
But chrome is so expensive!
Pic 3 ~ 30 minutes later,Moop is really really ****ed. My Yorkie won't go even near him. But no leak!
Pic 4 ~ But ah. There IS a leak. From the carburator float bowl! No biggie. Shut off the gas valve and you lose what? A few drops?
Pic 5 ~ My fuel line got like all hard. It's amazing how this stuff shrinks after a while. I wanted to replace this and got a new filter so I reached for 1/4 automotive fuel line. This stuff is not the same as the original line. It will leak unless you use actual clamps. The zip ties to the fuel filter seems okay to use,though. The clamp to the carburator was really tight. I needed a screwdriver to push the clamp down to seat right.
You probably noticed I used a different screw for my top hole. That's because I messed up my holeing and I needed a larger diameter screw. I had that laying around.
So now we see that this works,some notes for those that want to copy this bad boy.
1) Remember that this tank is not venting. Especially when it's hot outside just turn the cap about a 1/4 to a 1/2 a turn. That's plenty of venting.Not doing this will pressurize yout tank like when you open your gas cap in your car sometimes and you get that "SWOOSH". I think it's okay to keep it sealed when it's cold outside,but I would turn it anyway when your riding so air can get in as your using up gas. And even with the cap turned a little it's still a way better seal.And you can seal it when it's parked.And you won't lose your cap. It's such an epic win.
2) Wild guess I would say the hole saw you will need is 1 1/2 so bring your empty and cleaned tank with you when you're measuring it out. Trust me. This is the way you want to go.Make sure that the hole saw JUST FITS around the filler tube (with the cap off!). The less metal you take out the better.
3) I got my gas cap and fill tube at the local sporting goods store. Go to the boat section and look for gas deck fill. The one I got is a Chrome Plated Zinc Deck Fill part # 351750-1 made by SeaDog.Soon I'll order that locking cap. It's gonna rule.
4) Drill some holes just below where the threads start so you won't get a huge air pocket in your tank thereby reducing your tank capacity by a whole lot.And you'll reduce the chance of gas splashing up on your eyes cause an air pocket in your tank is trying to get out taking some gas outside with it. It's all theory but I figure drill the holes,save the hassle.
5) When you drilled out your hole,you'll find you need to seat that deck fill to your tank a bit better. Try sliding the deck fill to the tank and applying your hand pressure till the sheetmetal gives and seats the fill deck assembly.Watch that you don't mess up the threads that mount the tank. I used a 2x4 under the tank to clear the threads.Remember if you use this and you slip you can bend those mounting bolts so be careful.A better way would probably be take two 2x4's layed down and drill four holes for your mounting bolts.
With the fill deck seated,line up the screw holes. Take a small drill bit and drill one hole to the top hole using the deck fill as a template,screw it down tight,adjust,then do the same with the other two holes. This ensures it's on straight. Tighten down the screws and check that it's all uniform.
6) Now take it off and sand down the mating surfaces. Rough up the bottom of the deck fill too to ensure a good seal. Then buy that JB weld Waterweld from your local auto parts store. Mead a good sized bead around the bottom of your deck fill. Don't use that rubber gasket (my one and only use for this was when I painted my tank,I mounted this gasket with the screws,therefore the paint didn't hit the mating surface). Put the three screws in the holes and punch the screws thru the thick bead. Now when you put it back the screws should line right up. Tighten it all down a half turn one screw at a time till the clay eases out ensuring you got a good seal. Take off the excess and toss it cause it's already been meaded and will cure rock hard.
7) TAKE YOUR TIME. It should already be ready in less than a hour but give it a day before you add some gas.
MMMMmmmmm...What else should I do?
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